Drapers picks out the key directions for spring 15 at hit show Jacket Required, from classic blazers to the sports-meets-street look.
Back to basics
A handful of quality basics brands quietly caught the eye this season. Collective is a unisex label producing basic T-shirts, vests and jumpers in ethically sourced fabrics. Thom Krom’s style has a slightly more directional slant, with its premium basics focusing on a longline, layered silhouette. Danish brand Soulland unveiled its carry-over core collection, featuring high-quality basics finished with its signature ribbon logos.
Several brands took a smarter approach, with classic blazers and tailored jackets spotted. Gloverall’s striped seersucker is a great spring buy alongside Gibson’s colourful unlined version, while Dobson’s debut spring collection featured some lovely shirt jackets and light overshirts.
Fill up your summer offer with some of the best add-on products around. Poler Stuff’s printed caps featuring embroidered details looked fresh, while Australian lifestyle brand Sunday Somewhere’s varied sunglasses designs stood out. American sock brand Richer Poorer made its UK wholesale debut, showing its vibrant designs in a variety of colour and pattern combinations.
US shirt specialist BD Baggies made its UK sales debut at Jacket Required, with its collection of smart-casual shirts in a variety of colours and patterns. Portuguese Flannel also revealed its first spring collection, with its light flannel and jacquard styles drawing attention, while Sidian, Ersatz and Venes’ premium options looked good, using custom woven fabrics and interesting jacquards.
In the bag
Accessories brand Mi Pac has collaborated with Liberty Art Fabrics to produce a capsule collection of more premium bags, wholesaling from £25 to £29.20, as well as new shapes including larger backpack shapes, bum bags and washbags. New styles from Sandqvist include a smarter black leather range feature minimal detailing, alongside some fun printed designs. British brand Millican added the Maverick collection for spring, which features new lightweight backpacks in four colourways.
Best foot forward
Italian footwear brand Barleycorn was drawing a crowd thanks to it interesting shoe styles. Merging classic shapes with fresh design twists, all its shoes are made in Italy. Maian’s new snaffle loafer was also proving popular, while the stand-out designs from Ohw?’s new range included simple whip-stitched trainers in three colour options.
Transitional summer outerwear cropped up in most collections, with lightweight and unlined coats and jackets making the most impact with buyers thanks to the fact that they will carry customers between the seasons no matter what the weather. Simple classic designs such as Ben Sherman’s smart colourful mac, which also comes in cream and navy, and Libertine Libertine’s minimal coated design will have a wide appeal, while Gloverall’s unlined duffel is a neat summer update of a winter staple. The best designs took traditional shapes but refreshed them by using techy details such as waterproof coated cottons and bonded seams.
The sport-meets-street look is still going strong. New label Sons launched its monochrome range of fashion sportswear, featuring interesting silhouettes and oversized placement logos. Short order label The Ragged Priest focused on longline shapes, namely multi fabric panelled T-shirts and collarless shirts, all of which are produced in England. Nana Judy’s baseball shirts were also popular, coming in a range of printed or plain options.
Print and pattern appeared across the show, with buyers looking to lift their offer with some vibrant pieces. Florals have been spotted all season, with Pearly King and Libertine Libertine showing different ways to buy into the trend, while Duffer of Saint George Japan nodded to the print and pattern focus but in a more accessible way.
Dutch denim name Kings of Indigo, which has launched with sales agency Sewn for spring 15, uses Japanese and organic cottons for all it’s Made in Italy jeans, which focused on lighter washes for the new season. Blue Collar Worker took this one step further, with white and ecru jeans looking fresh, alongside Pearly King’s new eight and a half ounce hemp selvedge jean.