Associate fashion editor Graeme Moran picks the highlights from the second day of LCM.
The second day of LCM brought a diverse range of collections to the catwalk.
J.W. Anderson – while Anderson might like to split opinion with his provocative catwalk shows, see this season’s high platform shoes and gender-blurring wrap-like tabards, if you look deeper he still creates pieces that will shine on a store’s rail, and appeal to men. The boxy camel coat and his cosy textured knits and V neck sweaters will keep stockists happy. Top buys: the range of knitwear and Anderson’s take on classic outerwear.
Christopher Raeburn – a designer going from strength to strength, autumn 14 saw knitwear introduced for the first time, featuring fun polar bear intarsia or rubberised finishes, while his signature coats and jackets looked stronger than ever, with a raglan sleeve mac, a waterproof duffel and contrast sleeve bomber just three stand outs alongside fun fuzzy furs remade, as Raeburn always does, from sheepskin greatcoats of Siberian army officers. Top buys: the new knitwear and updated duffels.
Margaret Howell – it’s the simplicity and quality that marks Howell out from other labels and while you might not find show stoppers, you’ll certainly find something men want to buy. Top buys: fair isle patterned panel knits, chunky pea coats and slightly boxy tailoring.
Richard James – single breasted tailoring was the order of the day at Richard James, were great checked options appeared beside bold shawl neck tuxedos for evening. Top buys: the navy 3sb overcoat in oversized simple check and any of the on trend check pattern tailoring.
Hackett – the strongest show for a couple of season from Hackett focused on a travelling explor smartened up for the city. Suits came slim and as mismatched separates, with the checked options standing out, while cords made another appearance alongside some stellar coat styles ranging from sleek and smart to sporty and functional. Top buys: the fur trimmed hood parka, the wide cut macs, the corduroy trousers and check tailoring.
YMC – a large collection which showed a good way to work the season’s focus on matching coloured separates, with a focus on navy and pops of orange and red. Some strong jackets included nicely cut jean jackets and some short quilted puffa-styles. Top buys: great for transitional, lighter weight outerwear this season.
Rake – London’s smarter gent’s autumn 14 trends were clear at Rake, where cords, checks and mismatched tailoring gave a much more polished look to the smart-casual way of dressing. Blazers and trousers were mixed and matched, so check blazers were teamed with cord trousers or a flecked wool blazer in blue topped a pair of trousers in same fabric but in brown. Best buys: the luxe shearling outerwear, the leather bomber jacket and the SB blazers.
Casely Hayford –the brand celebrated its fifth anniversary with its first ever catwalk show this season. A punk meets skinhead vibe lent a familiar rocky, grungy feel, while razor sharp updates to traditional tailoring and interesting fabric play, namely the neoprene outerwear, kept the show interesting and new. For a certain market this will be a winning collection. Top buys: the printed shirts and trousers for a directional shopper, and the slim cuts Crombie outerwear, particularly the black and white panelled option.