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London Collections: Men

The leading trends and most eye-catching pieces from the capital’s menswear catwalks.

 

A Sauvage

A Sauvage

Bold colour

London was awash with bold and bright colours as designers pushed a strong summer palette. There was a burst of primary colour pops, while pastel tones offered more accessible options. Shoppers might not be used to seeing so many bright pieces in store, but buyers should look to statement items such as jackets, jumpers or trousers in single blocked colours to be teamed with staple items in neutrals, white, black and navy.

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Hentsch Man

Hentsch Man



Denim deluge

Although denim is a wardrobe staple, London’s designers used much more of the fabric this season. Classic jean jackets were served up by a broad spectrum of brands, including Burberry Prorsum, E Tautz and Matthew Miller, while Common and Bobby Abley worked denim into sporty oversized shirts and jumpers. Washes either focused on dark, untreated indigos or worn-in and washed-out light blues.




Print and pattern

As well as confident use of colour, print and pattern was backed in a big way in London. Directional brands have been doing this for a while, with bold and exuberant examples including bright tropical florals and artful paint splatters. However, prints and patterns will trickle through to the mainstream for spring 15 so stock up now, with more subtle repeats and micro patterns also seen in toned-down shades.

 

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon


Street sports

Already a solid trend at the younger end of the menswear market, sporty streetwear styles continued to crop up. The key item here was the baseball shirt in oversized shapes and directional fabrics like neoprene. Some designers gave it a more mainstream appeal in casual cottons or smarter shirting material (pictured near right). Oversized sleeveless tops and T-shirts, wide-leg shorts and short-sleeved sweatshirtscontinued the look, often teamed with the bomber jacket - another of the season’s key items.

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon


Seeing stripes

There were stripes galore, ranging from thick deckchair-like candy stripes through to smart pinstripe patterns. At the casual end, stripes lent a sporty athletic look to retro-style tracksuits and basics. Elsewhere, some designers pushed the pinstripe in the usual tailoring direction, while others reworked the typically formal cloth on casual, everyday pieces.







Oliver Spencer

Oliver Spencer

Summer suede

Another outerwear sub-trend was the emergence of suede jackets as a key piece for spring 15. Jean jackets and Harringtons were given new life in soft suede, while tasselled styles worked a more directional 1970s look at the likes of Topman Design and Katie Eary.

Oliver Spencer

Oliver Spencer

 





Smart safari

Typified by this season’s Richard James show, a neatly tailored take on safari cropped up across the city. The key item was the safari jacket or blazer featuring its signature four-patch or bellows pockets. Some came in thick cottons or in lighter-weight, unlined fabrics, while modern updates from the likes of YMC reworked the jacket in thin performance materials.



Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell

Versatile outerwear

The UK’s unpredictable weather meant designers pushed more transitional outerwear pieces. Many focused on thin, lightweight jackets in technical fabrics, with waterproofing and taped seams nodding to a sporty performancewear trend. Smart classics such as trenches and macs came loose and unlined, in thinner, breezier fabrics.

 

 



Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Bomber jackets

Showing no sign of fading, the trend for bomber jackets was still prevalent for spring 15. To offer something new to your customers, look out for new fabrication such as smarter tailored versions or designs featuring appliqué and embroidery.

 

 

 

 

 

The buyers’ view

What I enjoy about London is the mix of creativity and commerciality - a lot of home-grown designers showed very mature collections. Standouts were Jonathan Saunders and Matthew Miller, who reinvigorated the pinstripe. There was no escaping the sport trend, with bomber jackets everywhere.

Ben Carr, menswear buyer, The Shop at Bluebird in Chelsea

I loved Lou Dalton with all the tailoring mixed with nylon, which made all the smartness have quite a sporty feel. I’ve seen lots of white, red and blue. White can be quite a hard look to pull off but appeared at several shows. My top buy would be Lou Dalton’s bomber jackets.

Adrian Gibson, menswear buyer, Harvey Nichols

Burberry was a highlight. The colours were great and they’ll sell well for us. People are being much braver with colour for spring 15.

Stacey Smith, menswear buyer, Matchesfashion.com

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