As London Fashion Week settles into its new home, Drapers fashion editor Graeme Moran rounds up the standout collections from day one of the spring 16 edition, including Eudon Choi, Daks and emerging names Le Kilt and Molly Goddard.
Eudon Choi floats into spring
There was a relaxed and casual feel to Eudon Choi’s collection for spring 16, as simple, floaty layers of fabric came strewn across the body, forming drapey dresses, asymmetric tops and wide trousers. A nod to a growing trend, classic shirts were reconstructed into new dress shapes, while trench coats were reformed – one into a cape-like summer coat, another into a slinky, silky trench coat-come-dress.
John Smedley’s LFW debut
Knitwear brand John Smedley made its debut on the #LFW schedule with a collection of contemporary knitwear that pushes the brand beyond its classic jumpers styles, bringing a more fashion-focused edge. Silk blends gave pieces a soft, drapey feel in a calm palette of cream and light and dark blue. Shapes were minimal, with hero pieces featuring draped front panels or slit backs.
Le Kilt isn’t just about kilts anymore
Samantha McCoach is succeeding in taking a simple idea (the kilt) and expanding it into an evolving brand and a full collection. New tailored pieces - a slim blazer, cropped skinny trousers, a cool wide leg, slightly flared culotte - all appeared in classic Linton Tweed (the same fabric used by fashion houses like Chanel). This was all added to the core kilt range for spring 16.
Daks goes Deco
The 1920s and 1930s inspired Daks creative director Filippo Scuffi this season, resulting in a collection packed with Art Deco geometrics, dropped waist silhouettes and boxy dress shapes, some featuring daring plunging necklines (one down to the navel), trimmed with chain-like metallic embellishment.
J JS Lee’s relaxed stripes
There was a fresh air blowing through Korean designer J JS Lee’s spring offering, with looser, relaxed silhouettes (particularly fuller, flowing skirts and wide trousers) offering a new softness. Pleats came paneled around the body on dresses, while differing width stripes added a graphic feel alongside laser cut bird shapes that created fluttering appliqué. Shirting was also a key story, with some strong shirt dresses adding to the growing trend seen in New York.
Molly Goddard – new designer to watch
Emerging talent Molly Goddard continued her exploration of party princess dresses for modern day women, with full skirts, frilled sleeves and frothy fun fabrics combined in her casual take on evening dressing. New separates, shorter dresses and simpler styles showed how the young designer could successfully evolve her unique brand.