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London Fashion Week: the top nine shows of spring 16

Catch up on Drapers’ edit of the stand out collections and most influential trend directions for spring 16.

Erdem

Erdem

Erdem

Puffed Prairie dresses with long skirts and voluminous sleeves, pretty frills on upon tiered ruffles and a sense of romantic Victoriana - Erdem took his signature elegant dresses to new levels of hyper-feminine beauty for spring 16.

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

There was a casual, youthful feeling to Burberry Prorsum, turning down the glamour for spring 16. Neat military outerwear (pea coats, silky trenches or hooded capes featuring gold embroidery) were teamed with casual hooded sweaters (in cashmere of course), and layered over little lacy tops and wide, slouchy trousers or pretty prom dresses. The slouchy nylon backpacks and practical flat sandals added to the casual feel.

Roksanda

Roksanda

Roksanda

Roksanda’s signature bell sleeves appeared again for spring 16, perfectly timed for all things flared, frilled and flouncy. The sleeveless wide legged romper suits were an interesting evening proposition, while the layers of frayed chiffon created a stunning textural effect.

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

Ready for leg of mutton sleeves to make a return to fashion? That’s what Jonathan Anderson is proposing for spring 16, alongside Keith Haring-style squiggle prints, skimpy bra tops, knitted twin sets and simple strappy dresses. Eccentrically wearable for spring – minus those sleeves.

Marques’Almeida

Marques’Almeida

Marques’Almeida

The design duo behind Marques’Almeida tapped into the romantic femininity spotted all over the London shows, but reworked it for their customer with their cool, 1990s vibe. Languid layers of tiered frills wrapped around skirts, tops or entire dresses, while signature frayed denim jackets and kick flare jeans joined sleeveless tops belted at the neck.

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou

A patchwork of tiny florals and mini embellishment turned a collection of short folksy gypsy dresses into glittering creations, with more flare and frill appearing across the range, particularly as statement peplums trimming the waists of short, quilted dresses.

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Neon lace, plastic inserts, graphic panelling and geometric hems combined in a greatest hits collection at Christopher Kane where bold colour caught the eye. Spray paint graffiti was a stand out motif, alongside trailing silk trims that added movement to patchworked dresses.

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders

Saunders is one of the best London designers at mixing and matching colour, print and pattern in his collections and his graphic stripes and sloping panelled dresses and asymmetric skirts and tops were simple, but very effective. Side tie jackets and wrapped silhouettes are also a trend to watch.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha’s brand of pretty dresses goes from strength to strength each season, and spring 16 was probably her most beautiful to date. Eastern-inspiration influenced super feminine dresses that ranged from classically elegant through to modern, minimal stlyes. Frills, feminine fabrics and puffed up sleeves worked the season’s key trend, but Rocha added bondage straps and rope ties for a kinky edge.

 

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