A younger, casual direction, a black colour palette and a seasonless approach to the spring – Graeme Moran reviews the latest Burberry Prorsum womenswear collection from day four of #LFW.
There was a casual youthfulness to the spring 16 Burberry Prorsum womenswear collection, with lots of classic every-day streetwear seen on the catwalk – but this was streetwear in the sense that these were clothes you could imagine seeing on almost any high street. Rather than a glamorous fantasy or retro revival, this was Burberry’s luxury version of familiar, relaxed and (mostly) wearable clothes, all with a younger focus. There was even an oversized zipfront hoodie on the catwalk – although it was cashmere.
Just look at the slouchy black nylon backpacks that could have been straight from a Student Union bar (monogrammed with the models initials and featuring chunky gold hardware – that luxe Burberry element coming through again) or the flat, every-day embellished sandals worn by most of the models.
While this collection might not have wowed in ways that Bailey’s previous collections have, it was interesting to see the him present a range that felt much more targeted at a younger shopper, much like his diffusion labels usually are. He gave the range a more global appeal by being less-focused on traditional seasons, and instead offering a full range, particularly honing in on outerwear for day-to-day life.
There were boxy DB pea jackets, neat military coats and blazers complete with epaulets, a light toggle front duffel and even capes – one with a sporty mesh hood. Covering everything from spring to winter in one show, the key detail was the gold finishing, with embroideries, insignias and contrast-trimmed buttonholes giving each piece a military feel – sure to translate to the high street.
Classic Burberry trench coats were also light and unstructured, which took the formality out of the brand’s signature item. They were worn over flirty short party dresses in lingerie lace or tiered frills, or with lacy tops and billowing wide trousers. The collection’s most eveningwear-focused looks (think prom party rather than full on red carpet) came with nipped waists and floaty full-length skirts – often sheer and slit up to the thigh – not necessarily the most wearable of pieces, but much more casual than typically glamorous Burberry dresses.
Even the colour palette was simpler: unseasonably dark but commercially appealing, focusing on lots and lots of black, gold details and the odd pastel pink, soft green or cream.