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Menswear spring 13

Heritage continues to be the major story in menswear, with the most innovative developments seen on fabrics and texture.

Original Penguin

Original Penguin spring 13

Original Penguin spring 13

Name Ann Payne

Job Title Senior vice-president design/merchandising, creative director

Design It’s masculine with a quirky, whimsical edge. We are playing with garment dyes, print and pattern overdyes, space-dyed yarns and indigo dyes. The colours pack a punch and our guy embraces them. George Gershwin’s An American in Paris boasts an amazing array of colours and a can-do attitude which inspired us to design clothing with an American aesthetic but a European flair. 

Colours Chrysanthemum red and vibrant yellow are anchored by soft olives, indigos and pale greys.

Fabrics With knits, we are playing a lot with double-face fabrics while we are taking classics like Oxford cloth, ginghams and striped seersucker and over-dying them to give a soft, sun-bleached look. Lightweight nylons in pop colours and classic cotton jackets with beat-up and stone-washed effects dominate outerwear.

Silhouettes Shorts and pants remain slim while suiting and waistcoats stay fitted with a variety of collar treatments. We see strong spring outerwear with classic fall silhouettes such as the toggle coat and the military-style four-pocket coat, but in very lightweight and versatile fabrications.

Prices For the most part prices are unchanged, at £10 to £100.

Woolrich

Woolrich spring 13

Woolrich spring 13

Name Andrea Cane

Job Title Creative director

Design For spring 13, Woolrich takes inspiration from the concept and origins of the modern outdoors, with two key themes: Stone Masters and The New Journalists. Stone Masters is based on the outdoor trends created by the climbers of the 1960s to 1980s, a movement that started out with handmade and DIY clothing. The New Journalists is inspired by pioneering journalists and writers such as Hunter S Thompson, Tom Wolfe, Oriana Fallaci and Joan Didion, who in the late 1960s got involved in war reportage.

Colours Pop fluorescents for Stone Master mixed with traditional colours such as blue and green. Military colours feature in The New Journalist.

Fabrics Very important for us are the performance three-layer fabrics such as the classic 60/40 cotton nylon or our very light and comfortable mountain ripstop. There’s a big trend in reinterpretations of the classic M51 fishtail parka.

Silhouettes Modern and sophisticated reinterpretations of Woolrich classics like the mountain parka together with tailored elements like the mountain suit or the indigo twill suit.

Prices Wholesale prices remain the same.

Wolsey

Wolsey spring 13

Wolsey spring 13

Name Richard Bengtsson

Job Title Creative director

Design Our main themes are working gear, vintage tailoring and military uniforms. Our inspirations were the Wolsey factory worker and a British air force look – flight jackets, aviator sweaters and surplus trousers. Also the British seaside, but from a sense of ruggedness and adventure.

Colours Navy, khaki, ecru, army and grey mélange are key. Orange and verdigris, as well as light blue and a pale yellow, are introduced as accents. Camouflage is used for linings and detail.

Fabrics Contrasting textures – broken twill, washed linen, PU-coated cottons and performance nylon.

Silhouettes Uniform and air force-inspired silhouettes are mixed with urban activewear. It’s a part of our history – supplying garments for the military as well as the great expeditions.

Prices Prices have not yet been set.

Sand

Sand spring 13

Sand spring 13

Name Søren Sand

Job Title Creative director and chief executive

Design The collection is built around colours and fabric stories, making it very easy to work with. There are fragments of past sport and an overall feeling of simplification. The new shirt jackets, being so comfortable and lightweight, will be the most commercial. I get very inspired by fabrics and their behaviour – I’m literally talking with the fabric.

Colours Graduations of blue from powder to deep navy, salty dry shades of grey and beige, and a touch of vibrant spicy orange and crocus.

Fabrics The watchword is ‘lightness’: wool mixed with silk, crispy compact cotton and dry, cool linen in fine herringbone and a lot of prints.

Silhouettes The short length is seen on both blazers and pants and is juxtaposed against our usual silhouette. Also, moderate to tiny collar sizes feature throughout.

Prices The same as last season, £15 to £225.

CP Company

CP Company spring 13

CP Company spring 13

Name Enzo Fusco

Job Title President of FGF Industry (owner of CP Company)

Design Heritage is the real CP Company DNA, a journey through our archive, our memory, where some of our classical/iconic pieces have been reinterpreted and renewed while Urban/Sport, which is a new collection, puts together elegance and functionality, the technicality and the performance of the fabrics with the clean. The classic Goggle Jacket is reinterpreted through a new mask-protection system and presented in an ultra-technical taped version with cut and glued details.

Colours Natural colours mixed with strong ones for Heritage; red, mint, blue, yellow, orange and light blue for the Urban/Sport line and natural colours such as khaki, beige, military green and rust brown for the Military Elegance line.

Fabrics In addition to new technical fabrics like the taping ones and different types of nylon, the garment-dyed treatment remains the main strength.

Silhouettes The Goggle Jacket is renewed every season both in style and fabric. This jacket is an icon of the brand and is present in the collection every season – we think it represents the brand.

Prices We tried to maintain the same prices for every type of product but we’ve increased the price range.

Lyle & Scott Heritage

Lyle and Scott Heritage spring 13

Lyle and Scott Heritage spring 13

Name Vipul Parmar

Job Title Designer

Design Spring 13 was inspired by the Italian Riviera – I felt the research and theme title lent its hand to trends happening in the current market. The palette was easily inspired and created through looking at the research.

Colours Portofino pink, burnt orange, Genoa blue

Fabrics Cotton outerwear with water-resistant finish, Chanteclair 5g cotton yarn.

Silhouettes The utility blazer: functional married with a contemporary aesthetic. I felt it was a new trend to pursue as this has been flooding the market in a casual context. Ours stands out due to the clean look. I feel men’s wardrobes will get smarter.

Prices We’ve been very keen to undercut our brand adjacencies, so the pricing (£11 to £89) is quite sensitive to the market requirements.

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