A round up of the key shows from day one and two at Milan Fashion Week.
This season Miuccia Prada celebrated fabric and craft, patching together various different fabrics and materials, mixing high and low as she often does with fancy, rich brocades with aging, fraying cottons, lux suede and leather with simple knits. It riffed on the same basic, everyday shapes we saw in her spring 15 menswear collection, but spun in a prim and feminine way. Simple tailored knee length coats with contrast topstitching, columnar knee skimming skirts and sleeveless tops or tunics, often with high necks, straight dresses with pretty yoke details, worn with almost-frumpy cable knit jumpers. As the collection progressed the mix and match of fabrics got wilder, creating a stand out geometric patchwork across a dress and duster coat, in that sort of ugly but covetable way that only Prada can sell clothes.
Denim, suede and fur combined in a seventies era, military-inspired romp at Gucci. Oversized brass buttons, patch pockets and frogging littered costume-like statement army jackets, the likes of which will appeal to the Gucci girl and whose influence will trickle down to other stores. These topped wide leg denim jeans and were layered over slouchy printed shirts, often sexily unbuttoned or featuring lace-up fronts.
Fresh and nautical was the theme at Emporio Armani, with multiple shades of signature blue from navy to cobalt paired with crisp white. Whether coming through as solid blocks of colour on tops, contrast trims on blazers or bold stripes on skirts and suits, the shades served up a striking palette. Trends we’ve seen at London and New York were present via lightweight sheers across delicate blouses, plump ruffles across mini dresses and slouchy tailored trousers.
A much more wearable collection than the oversized silhouettes presented for autumn 14, spring 15 at Fendi sees pretty, structured dresses adorned with oversized orchids. Options range from short shifts, to mid-lengths with all-over florals or pretty placement motifs. Nodding to the monochrome trend, another highlight was the separates (jackets, trousers and wrap coats) which came through in an almost ombre effect, softening the bolder striped look we’ve also been seeing this season.
We’ve come to expect a certain level of fun, bold kitsch from Moschino, particularly after last season’s McDonald’s theme. This season it was Barbie’s turn for a Moschino makeover, with candyfloss pink the central theme (of course). From there on, we had Malibu Barbie beachwear with retro swimsuits and towelling dresses, as well cowgirl Barbie with pink boots and a pussybow blouse, Barbie at the gym in a pink tracksuit and of course cocktail dress Barbie, complete with oversized bows and huge shoulders. It’s not for everyone, but it’s guaranteed to be as much of a hit with the street-style clique as ever and from there, we’ll no doubt be seeing a Barbie trend emerge on the high street.