Contrast panels, distressed leathers and biker details enlivened a safe and sophisticated palette on footwear at Moda
Named IFRA women’s footwear brand of the year for the sixth time in a row on the first night of Moda, mainstream footwear giant Rieker is bucking the downturn. Its subtle introduction of trend-led silhouettes and details is designed to woo a wide age range of customers and the autumn 09 collection ushers in plenty of ruching and interest-leather panels on womenswear. Brogue detailing and bow-tie details update the look while the core style will be the ankle boot. The core comfort range uses a natural palette with contrast panels. There are 350 women’s styles and 75 men’s in the exhaustive range.
Prices from £22 to £40
Commercially led with a touch of eccentricity, the autumn 09 Loake and Loake Design collections at Moda will appeal to the Paul Smith wearing man be he youthful or a touch more mature. The subtly sharpened last is not too pointy while the deployment of pared-down brogue details add a casual/formal versatility. Natural shades and waxy leathers further soften the impact while the popular desert boot is rolled out again alongside tasselled loafers.
Prices from £49 to £70
A much cleaner range than previously from Skechers sees the US brand usher in a denim-friendly urban feel. In menswear, vulcanised canvas and leather styles are anchored to classic white with detailing in a host of grey and natural shades. For women, the embroidered S logo has been rendered smaller and subtler and the classic bungees are embroidered with florals in the same fresh looking colour palette as the men’s range while a hi-octane spectrum is rolled out on 1980s inspired high top range. Western and biker detailing collide on boots with multi-buckles and crests.
Prices from £15 to £30
Camel Active’s womenswear range is five years old now but autumn 09 witnesses its most complete range to date. Beyond the female versions of the popular men’s styles – from hybrids to desert boots – knee high leather boots come with knitted cuffs and calves with biker detailing just outweighing the western influence. A rich colour palette with hi-shine burnished leathers on oxblood, black, grey and deep tan formal styles use raised stitching details while buckled and gusseted desert boots come in waxy finishes. The brand’s signature walking boots and hybrid styles use contrast fabric panels alongside leather and synthetics.
Prices from £36 to £43
In its second season at Moda, Caterpillar’s impressive stand was divided between the mainline and the Legendary Raw collection. This premium range, which has 19 men’s styles and 16 women’s embraces biker detailing and retro football boot shapes for men, with fabrics including reverse suede open grain leathers.
In womenswear the theme continues but a touch cleaner a bit more feminine with burnished toes, buckle detailing and leather mini patch pockets on calves,
Prices from £29 to £64
020 7860 0100
Anatomic & Co
In just four years on these shores the comfort-led Brazilian footwear brand has charged into Drapers indicator league for its men’s styles. This edition of the Moda show saw it launch womenswear and as well as male-mimicking Chelsea and chukka boots, there were wedge heeled court shoes and fully sheepskin lined knee-high boots. Across men’s and women’s ranges the brand continues to lead on comfort with design kept simple and clean. Oxfords, desert boots and boat-shoe styles all look classic.
Prices from £34 to £39
0844 800 2370
From mod-inspired tasselled loafers to baseball shoes and monkey boots, the Ben Sherman range is about statement men’s footwear – and most are created from archive silhouettes. The subtly burnished toes and contrast tone leather panels of oxfords add a dapper touch to formal shoes while dogtooth patterns are used on gussets on Chelsea boots and on loafers’ vamps. Desert boots come with purple laces; deck shoes are given a hi-shine and leather vulcanised styles have brogue suede panels added.
Prices from £21 £43
020 7812 5300
The women’s range at Hush Puppies is all about the ankle boot with bow-tie and suede styles in the Luxe Collection and patent versions in the mainline range. Knee-high styles stick to safer styling while a suede desert boot translates from the men’s range. Archive styles inspired the menswear range with brogue and desert boots coming in oily finishes and suedes while the range on the whole took a turn for the slightly smarter with casual/formal versatility the key influence. The Luxe collection was one a knee high suede boot came
Prices from £22 to £60
020 7860 0100
Crepe leathers and patent animal skin finishes enliven the womenswear for autumn 09 from the technically inspired Mephisto. Softly ruched 1980s style boots sit alongside high-heeled shoe boots and a host of walking pumps. Soft olive-coloured leathers were used on ankle boots, while purple emerges as a highlight colour. Meanwhile black, chocolate brown and dark tan form the play-safe palette on men’s footwear while Gore-Tex walking shoes and casual walking boots betray the brand’s performance roots. Feature leathers including soft open grain finishes add a sophisticated comfort-led spin.
Prices from £22 to £85
A new last adds a slimmed down look to the pointed toe ankle boots for German brand Caprice while classic riding boots give a Western feel to this season where knee-highs are offered with contrast fabric panels of leather and suede with pleating and ruching. The palette includes core natural leather and black as well as a deep purple and a green/grey shade dubbed pepper. The brand has produced its men’s range for the second time this season. Under the moniker Air 4 Men by Caprice, it uses the same patented technology that underpins the women’s collection and features trainers and moccasins in sporty styles.
Prices from £20 to £39
Recently bought by footwear giant Wolverine, Cushe is poised for a global roll-out. The autumn 09 accordingly sticks to the brand’s formula of versatile casual styling, with fabric contrasts. Youthful quirks are deployed on the outsoles, including the vinyl record style and honeycomb mouldings. Outdoor styled hybrids form the core of this sporty range for men and women, which uses a play-safe palette of brown, white and grey. Women’s winter boots include fully lined leathers with fur trim and quilted nylon styles that play out a fusion of utility and comfort. Tonal grey styles and brogue detailing add a trend-led edge to the range.
Prices from £20 to £48
£23 to £51