The final leg of the spring 16 womenswear shows have got underway in Paris, with shows from John Galliano for Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten.
Galliano’s 1950s Geishas at Maison Margiela
While a layer of Galliano-meets-Margiela eccentricity ran through this show, it was full of modern takes on wearable classics and lots of new accessories, including some strong bag shapes. The show opened with a take on 1950s dressing, think round-shouldered and short-sleeve coats with contrasting leopard print top collars and elegant below the knee pencil and wrap-front skirts – very Margiela housewife. There was also an eastern influence (a Galliano signature) with Geisha-style wrap belts and languid bias cut skirts (another Galliano classic).
Dries Van Noten’s flamboyant flounces
Amongst the dazzling jewel tones and careful clash of classic patterns of Dries Van Noten’s heavy spring collection, it was his use of fabric that shone through – jacquard, brocade and silks, standing out particularly in purple. Mannish oversized tailoring came as blazers, sometimes embellished with wing-like graphics, or classic smart coats, layered over long skirts trimmed with floaty tulle, edged in frilled peplum trims and scattered with embellishment – balancing a formal tomboy style with a flirty, feminine feel.