The best collections from French menswear shows Capsule Paris, Tranoï Homme and Man.
The latest stop on the buying calendar was Paris, as menswear exhibitors and buyers descended on Capsule Paris, Tranoï Homme and Man, which ran alongside the city’s catwalk shows.
Capsule hosted a broad offer, from emerging streetwear and premium labels through to established contemporary players. Man served up a number of new brands, while Tranoï’s more eclectic mix focused on edgy, directional brands and heritage labels.
The variety of events drew a healthy crowd of key buyers from independents, department stores and etailers, with one describing the events as “hectic but upbeat”. Stephen Monaghan, buyer at etailer The Great Divide, said: “It’s been great. We’ve found great diversity at Man and really strong brands at Capsule. We’ve definitely been placing orders.”
Brands were also happy. Stuart Maxwell, managing director of knitwear label Esk, described the mood as “very buoyant”.
“We saw more buyers on our first day than during the whole time in Berlin,” said Lenny Power, sales agent at agency Rolling People Showroom, which exhibited several labels including Still Good and House of Nines.
“The calibre of buyers is always strong in Paris because there’s so much going on,” said Simon Purchase, sales and marketing manager at streetwear brand Supremebeing.
Showing its third menswear collection at Capsule, Esk focuses on modern knitwear with an understated luxury element. Already stocked by retailers such as Harvey Nichols, LN-CC and Joseph, all products are made in Scotland using natural fibres and combine interesting blends with luxe finishes and sleek details. A chunky jumper in a 30% cashmere and 70% extra-fine merino mixture features elbow patches reimagined as intarsia panels in contrast colours, while a key jumper style features a zig-zag contrast panel. Wholesale prices range from £65 for a sleeveless V-neck jumper to £220 for a 100% cashmere jumper, with an up to three-times mark-up.
01461 207764 www.eskcashmere.com
- Les (Art)ists
Parisian brand Les (Art)ists has expanded its range of clothing beyond its core line of football jersey-inspired T-shirts which feature the names of fashion designers such as Martin Margiela, Riccardo Tisci and Marc Jacobs. Exhibited at the label’s trade show debut, the fuller collection includes smart plaid shirts, mesh baseball shirts, leather-sleeved bomber jackets and accessories, all featuring the signature sports team-inspired slogans and graphics. Previous seasons’ designs are updated in fresh colourways or feature new embroidered finishes. Wholesale prices range from €18 (£15) for a slogan vest to €36 (£29) for the
contrast-sleeved bomber jacket.
00 33 7 86 00 74 77 www.les-artists.fr
Italian outerwear specialist Museum creates premium jackets and coats combining high-end luxury finishes with technical performancewear details. Signed to UK agent Brand Progression for autumn 14, the latest collection’s highlights include a fur-trimmed hooded classic parka in check wool and a multi-pocket utility jacket in nylon or water-resistant 100% cotton, which features a double-layered removable quilted insert. Wholesale prices start at €109 (£90) for a light casual jacket, going up to €435 (£360) for a cashmere blend coat.
020 3411 7341 www.museumtheoriginal.com
- Jean Machine
Jean Machine’s core denim offer has been expanded to include a skinny fit for the first time, coming with 2% stretch and wholesaling at £49. Other additions include a reworking of the brand’s signature denim jacket, which has a straighter seam to give a slightly boxier shape, making it a more winter-friendly outer layer. The jacket also features oversized front pockets, and is available in both denim (£82) and baby cord (£93). Elsewhere, a new tie-dye-like wash is used on jeans and denim jackets. Two suede jackets - one an update of a denim jacket and the other a longer-line shawl-collar design - come with on-trend shearling contrast collars.
020 7349 9030 www.thejeanmachine.co.uk
Creating prints and patterns that stand out is difficult as more brands work the trend. However, Italian premium streetwear brand Iuter caught Drapers’ eye with new propositions that move the trend into fresh directions. Replacing prints with patterned knit panels, such as a yoke on a T-shirt, works well, as does replacing print with embroidery. The brand is represented in the UK by The Clear Agency. Wholesale prices from €15 (£12) for a T-shirt to €152 (£123) for an embroidered varsity jacket.
020 7739 1414 www.iuter.com
- Still Good
For its third season, this French menswear brand continued its focus on interesting, top-quality fabrications, all sourced in Italy or Japan. Jackets and shirts are given the Still Good treatment, sliced through with a fuzzy contrast fabric panel across the chest and arms. Elsewhere, a foamy neoprene is actually a double-faced fabric, bonded to a cabled knit and is worked in contrast panels on jumpers and tops. Knitted jumpers come with a variety of cable sizes to create contrasting panels of texture. The brand is now represented by Rolling People Showroom in the UK. Wholesale prices range from €28 (£23) for T-shirts, €65 (£53) for knits, up to €270 (£223) for the most premium outerwear.
07740 112501 www.still-good.com
- Harnold Brook
English heritage brand Harnold Brook has added a variety of styles to its core duffle coat collection this season. On-trend Prince of Wales checks and tartans feature, while last season’s camouflage is reworked in more abstract and subtle patterns. New designs mix and match colour and pattern options across sleeves and panels. A new parka style comes in wool or waxed cotton, and some have faux or racoon fur-trimmed hoods and reflective tape seams. Wholesale prices start at €195 (£160) for a standard duffle coat, up to €280 (£230) for a boiled wool, fully lined, racoon fur-trimmed parka.
00 33 2 54 12 24 47 www.harnoldbrook.com
- Black Score
Short-order, hand-printed basics brand Black Score focuses on three styles of tops in three colour options emblazoned with irreverent hand-drawn illustrations and tongue-in-cheek pop culture slogans. Already stocked in stores such as Harrods and Liberty, and offering six drops a year, its latest collection introduces accessories for the first time, including tote bags (£5.20 wholesale) and phone covers (£5 wholesale). T-shirts wholesale for £10, raglan T-shirts are £12 and sweaters £16.
01323 441777 www.blackscore.co.uk
Emerging streetwear brand Smile Now Cry Later, otherwise known as SNCL, made an impact at Paris’s Man show this season, unveiling a solid and sleek collection that nods to current trends while maintaining its individuality. Standout pieces include new ‘multimedia’ shirts and thick sweaters that mix collegiate sports team-style logos, embroidery and lettering with graphic bespoke prints. Baseball tops and boxy oversized T-shirts come in mesh-like foamy neoprene. A jumper/shirt hybrid was a favourite with buyers. Wholesale prices start at £26 for T-shirts, £55 for shirts and £170 for the top-end parka.
020 7749 8625 www.snclbrand.com
- Universal Works
A fully reversible casual jacket is a favourite with buyers in the autumn 14 Universal Works collection. A transitional or layering piece, it comes with one side in nylon and the other in cotton and features light wadding and quilting, wholesaling for £66. Other top buys include a Harris Tweed utility jacket and an on-trend parka featuring shearling lining, available in plain cotton (£159 wholesale) or a British Millerain dry waxed finish (£159 wholesale).
0115 924 9363 www.universalworks.co.uk
- Hentsch Man
Footwear is new to the Hentsch Man collection for autumn 14, as part of two collaborative projects. Hi-top sneakers featuring the season’s key wallpaper floral prints have been developed with African footwear brand Sawa and wholesale for £41, while an exclusive collaboration with luxury slipper brand Stubbs & Wootton has produced more formal, slipper-style shoes at £144. Clothing includes a casual lightweight Crombie, a thick winter take on a bomber jacket in a range of colours and quilted finishes, and a thick V-neck sweater. Wholesale prices range from £18 for basic graphic T-shirts to £146 for a long-line Crombie coat.
020 7935 6939 www.hentschman.com