The must-see brands and other essentials for the Florence show.
● Pitti Uomo’s spring 15 guest designer is Z Zegna, relaunching for the season with a catwalk held at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda on June 19. The range designed by Z Zegna’s Murray Scallon and Paul Surridge, who are working together for the first time, is inspired by classic tailoring and technical sportswear.
● Italian menswear brand Esemplare will unveil its new direction following a change of ownership. Its new designer will debut a cleaner, more contemporary look as the brand moves away from its traditional sportswear-inspired aesthetic. The range is inspired by travel around the British Isles, sailing and workwear.
Luxury resort brand Chucs is launching its first wholesale range following the appointment of Gordon Ritchie, previously head of wholesale at British heritage brand Crombie, as head of sales. The collection takes inspiration from 1950s Acapulco and aims to bring old-world glamour to modern leisurewear. Expect bold prints across its signature swim shorts, as well as an expanded range of technical sportswear with UV protection, luxe cotton T-shirts, polos and a range of accessories including summery silk scarves and caps.
Wholesale prices range from £30 for scarves to between £70 and £100 for swimwear.
07584 128433 www.chucs.com
There is a focus on nautical blue for menswear at Henri Lloyd, although brighter colours do come into play. Prints are a strong trend, ranging from all-over geometric patterns to stripes, while elsewhere colour blocking features heavily. Neat silhouettes carry a sporty undertone, with jackets in a variety of lightweight laminates and coated technical fabrics. Yarns are mostly blended, giving unexpected finishes, and lengths are cropped and lean in fit.
T-shirts start at £25 wholesale, with knitwear from £70, denim from £75 and technical jackets from £100.
020 7253 2983 www.henrilloyd.com
Antony Morato’s collection is split into three sub-categories. Black is the most trend-led, featuring tailored pieces
with printed designs. Its namesake colour dominates, with gold accents. Stone-washed pieces give the effect of a handcrafted finish. The more casual Gold range includes Breton-striped pieces and monochromatic prints on T-shirts and shirts, as well as jeans in classic washes. Silver takes its inspiration from sport and is designed to be suitable for the gym as well as other casual outings. While some more formal silhouettes such as jackets and shirts do feature, they come in jersey fabrics to maintain the sporty aesthetic.
Wholesale prices range from £9 for a T-shirt to £138 for a leather coat.
020 7613 0606 www.morato.it
This traditionally women’s lingerie brand is unveiling its first menswear range at Pitti. Night robes and kimonos are key pieces, as well as long gilets paired with oversized tracksuit trousers. A beachwear collection features Lycra garments such as a wetsuit and a full swimsuit. White, ultramarine blue, coral, red and black dominate the range. Moccasins and biker boots, both with trainer-style leather soles, are also included. Fabrics carry through from the women’s collection and feature silk chiffon, cupro and cotton, as well as raffia and jacquard silk. Cashmere is used in tracksuits and T-shirts.
Wholesale prices range from £21 for boxers to £135 for robes.
020 7268 2480 www.laperla.com
The changeable British weather inspired Baracuta’s collection. Key colours include rust, royal blue and olive green, with a standout pattern of black, green and navy tartan.
Signature items expected to be bestsellers are the G9 jacket styles and G10 raincoat. G9 styles start at €150 (£121.25) wholesale, with prices topping out at €350 (£283) for the Blue Label camouflage raincoat.
07773 775092 www.baracuta.com
It’s all about relaxed dressing at Alan Paine, with new lightweight cotton denim pieces, signature pure cotton piqué polos, jersey shirts and sporty, casual knits in both cotton cashmere and pure cotton. Various shades of blue from aqua to indigo stand out, as does berry red, alongside the brand’s standard bright colour range.
Wholesale prices start at £22 for knitwear.
01623 522570 www.alanpaine.co.uk
Q&A Antonio Cristaudo, marketing and development manager, Pitti Uomo
Why should buyers visit?
Pitti Uomo interprets contemporary menswear and lifestyle trends, focusing on the products and looks that are leading today’s markets. From the excellence of Made in Italy to the edgiest fashion research, to special projects by the world’s leading designers, buyers find the most complete and market-oriented showcase here in Florence.
Why should brands exhibit?
Over the years, we have become the key reference point where the world’s finest manufacturers present their new collections.
More than 30,000 visitors attended the edition last summer and nearly 21,000 were buyers representing the world’s leading retailers, large and small.
Does the spring 15 show have a theme?
Yes, Ping Pitti Pong. It will be taking a look at sports from a unique point of view; contemporary lifestyles seen through a sports mindset.
Where to stay
Aim for a hotel in the centre of Florence. The Fortezza da Basso, where Pitti Uomo takes place, is just five minutes walk from Piazza della Signoria, for example.
Where to eat
The city centre is full of restaurants offering great meals in a fashionable atmosphere. Pitti recommends: CIBI Firenze, Via delle Caldaie 12/14 (+39 055 2381729); Trattoria Gargani, Via del Moro 48 (+39 055 2398898); Trattoria Napoleone, Piazza del Carmine, 24 (+39 055 281015); Il Santo Bevitore, Via di Santo Spirito, 64/66 (+39 055 211264); Gallery Fusion Bar, Vicolo dell’Oro, 3 (+39 055 2726 6987)
Take a stroll
Enjoy a walk through the historic Oltrarno neighbourhood, a part of Florence rich with cafes, restaurants and clubs.