Plenty of trademark luxury from the Italian heavyweight, which with Canali and Zegna no longer here, carries the candle for classic tailoring. While the fabrics are all about the soft handle, the look of the tailoring has become more structured with exaggerated lapels and longer jackets used across the range. This is most confidently executed in the directional Trend line, which uses ink and petrol blue for a steely appeal, teamed with slim ties, contrast collar shirts and peacoat outerwear. In the mainline, soft greys and biscuit shades offer a gentler palette, with Bordeaux highlights appearing on checked tailoring, which abounds alongside houndstooth in monochrome or tonal versions.
The ubiquitous checked shirts have made the transition from streetwear to crop up here too, alongside fine to mid gauge cable knits, which include versions with snowflake intarsia patterns. Outerwear is about lightweight performance with breathable, waterproof, nano-technology; otherwise soft leathers are lined with cashmere. A greater swathe of casualwear is designed to up the brand’s lifestyle appeal and a new leather goods range is added but tailoring – of course – remains the anchor.
- Grey micro check 2sb suit with wide lapels and shawl collared waistcoat
- Chunky, navy knit in the form of a tailored jacket with football buttons
- Slimline reefer jacket ?? in grey and black houndstooth with football buttons
- Ink blue fine gauge cardigan with a narrow shawl collar
- A new range of leather and crocodile accessories
Sergio Corneliani, creative director: “The beginning point for the collection is the 1950s. There are lots of Glen checks, jackets are longer and the lapels are higher and wider. The elegance of the 1950s is something we need now – it is masculine but uses more fancy fabrics. Until now the cloths have been too plain. The silhouette has been very 1960s for the past five years and we need a change. We are concerned about the state of the economy but of course we look ahead. We have stretched the price points so that the higher prices will appeal to the top end but we are also careful commercially to have the right entry point.”