An enormous collection with 3000 SKUs per season, the Hackett range was presented in typically impressive fashion at Pitti and the most eye-catching section is the Mayfair range, a sharp business-based collection anchored to sharp, 1960s inspired tailoring. A spectrum of mid grey shades is balanced by rich navy, Bordeaux and black, while the shape is a touch sleeker, from the nipped in waists to the narrow blade ties.
Windowpane checked suiting is in line with the profusion of checks to emerge in Florence but, like Daks, Hackett also presented a confident chalk stripe. Knitwear includes black roll necks alongside micro houndstooth and herringbone styles, which toe the line for the profusion of conspicuously traditional fabrics at Pitti this season. The polo shirts, featuring the Mayfair logo look like strong commercial offerings on the casual side.
The Klosters range introduces intarsia knits in a palette of winter whites and biscuit. Fittingly for a brand that ties up with Aston Martin to create a tech-sports range, this collection is all about creating a sleek, moneyed look.
- Polo shirt with double stripe on collar and placket, bearing the new Mayfair logo
- Grey three piece 2sb with light grey windowpane check and high, wide lapel
- Navy wool db reefer coat with leather buttons and trimming
- Grey V-neck knit with tonal grey V and waistband
- 2sb dogtooth sports jacket
Jeremy Hackett, founder: “The Mayfair range was inspired by the Donovan bar in Browns hotel, which has lots of 1960s imagery on the walls and we felt it captured the right mood for reinventing the suit brand, as it is in Mayfair, which inspired the name. But a retro mood has to be conveyed commercially so though it is a slimmer silhouette by our standards, by no means it is Dior Homme skinny. That said, I feel that baggier silhouettes will start to emerge next year too and we are working on integrating some of that in our spring 10 range with some naval trousers. The Mayfair logo [a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas] was inspired by a skull and crossbones motif but we are not going to overdo it with the branding on the range, we want it stay a little understated. With the range we are pushing the top end price points a little and a lot of the fabrics are from England, which has cachet internationally.”
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