A wide range that offers co-ordinated stories, with classic and directional options, always with a touch of luxury. Checks are important here, as at many brands. Tailoring silhouettes are more structured, with high-rolled, pagoda shoulders offering a subtly masculine and dramatic silhouette. Lots of double faced fabrics are used in the drive for luxury and fabric interest. Palettes include a confidently executed purple story, which veers from a velvet 3sb to purple suede desert boots.
A grey and terracotta range highlights the focus on smart separates with its wealth of co-ordinated pieces. Patchwork emerged as an important element on tailoring at Pitti, with elbow patches used across many ranges, introducing leather and suede touches; in Pal Zileri’s Lab collection this meant positioning checked fabrics at angles on patch pockets, while subtle contrasting panels were placed a la taping on lapels. In the Lab range, fabrics were rough and stiff, again adding more structure, while hairy mohair 2sb jackets and tailored knits offered a softer silhouette.
The introduction of new leather goods collection underlined the commercial nous being exercised by menswear brands for autumn 09.
- Dark brown 2sb jacket created using chemical free process bio-tech fabric, with a subtle tonic finish
- Double-panelled silk ties with worsted inserts
- Super lightweight “Plumo” mac made from 100% silk
- Quilted leather and tech fabric-fabric panelled biker jacket in tan, dark brown and black
- Stiff canvas dark blue and black checked 2sb
Yvan Benbanaste, creative director: “For designers on the catwalk, like Dolce & Gabanna, tartan has been strong and we have given it a classic interpretation in our top-end sartorial range. There is a purple story in the range – it was a commercial element this season (autumn 08) and it will develop in autumn 09.We have introduced more options for consumers with more separates too. In the mainline, we have used a new empty shoulder on some of the outerwear, which is a softer line meanwhile, the pagoda shoulder used first at Bottega Veneta gives a more classic silhouette – the arm hole is higher and we have used that on some tailoring. In Lab, we have been inspired by the 1950s and used rougher, stiffer fabrics that add more structure to the tailoring.”