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Pitti Uomo preview

With the 77th edition of the mainstream menswear fair on the horizon, prepare for your trip to Florence by reading up on some of the top brands and debutants on show.

EdenPark

French lifestyle brand Eden Park will make its Pitti Uomo debut this season. The brand has based its concept around the idea of an upmarket vintage rugby changing room with wooden benches, vintage hooks, leather boots and rugby balls.  All of the brand’s international agents will be present at the show including the UK’s Cord Agencies represented by David Blundell and Paul Bone.

The stand will be used to highlight Eden Park’s entire men’s collection, with the four ranges Team, Club House, EP & Town. TheTeam collection, which is purely inspired by the brand’s rugby heritage, uses the number 10 in its designs and patterns. It was worn by brand founder Franck Mesnel and signifies the key position of fly half in the rugby team. The palette will be fresher, using mint, lichen, gold, carrot and vintage rose shades. The EP range is designed as a more on-trend, fashion driven range that uses a prune, duck egg and the signature Eden Park pink to ad punch to its palette. The Club House range in inspired by an English gentlemanly look and uses popcorn, lavender, and powdery shades in autumn 10. The brand’s most classic line, Town, introduced formal wear with details including oval buttons and striped lining. Shades here include mink, purple, shocking pink and saffron.

Eden Park’s collection will be located on its stand on the lower ground floor of eth central pavilion at stand K15/L8.

Lubiam    
                   

A heavyweight of Italian tailoring, Lubiam has undergone some internal changes recently and younger generation is now taking the rudder and re-energising the brand. Beyond its domestic market, this has meant that there has been a shake up of its international agents.
Tim Horsley, who also handles Italian lifestyle brand Peuterey, has been appointed for the UK and RoI and now could be a good time to revisit the brand which – as well as boasting a significant private label business in the UK – has three separate ranges. Top of the tree is the premium tailoring line Luigi Bianchi. Then comes the mainline tailoring range – called simply, Lubiam – and then there is the LBM range, a collection of smart casual separates including garment washed jackets and performance sportswear including down-filled outerwear. The LBM range is the most youthful with more.

See the brand at stand V 5-9/Z 3-5 on the lower ground floor of the central pavilion.

Alexander Boyd        

Handmade in its Kent factory, the autumn 10 range from Alexander Boyd is inspired by the elegant wardrobe of actor Edward Fox in the film the Day of the Jackal based on the Frederick Forsyth novel. The collection is a contemporary interpretation, which includes shirts, ties and scarves. The range consists of twelve styles made from a wide range of fine cotton fabrics from the premium European mills in Italy and Switzerland. Key shirtings are casual Tattersalls, gingham, modern checks and coloured pinstripes. Cotton flannel gives a warm and casual handle to the collection, which is designed to be worn both casually and formally.
Cream poplin is used as a highlight detail in the yoke and gauntlet of each shirt. Shaped four piece yokes, French seams, loop details and contrast panels all add interest to the shirts.  The complementary tie collection is comprised of fifteen designs woven in Suffolk and hand made in England at our Kent factory.  The collection covers semi-plain structures, polka dots geometric designs, wool ties and intricate jacquard designs.

View the Alexander Boyd collection on stand 123 in the galla Arsenale

Babette Wasserman   
          

Cufflink queen Babette Wasserman will show her spring 10 collection at Pitti Uomo, alongside a range of classic designs like the Mackintosh (pictured) one of last season’s bestsellers. For the spring 10 range Wasserman is flexing her intellectual muscle as well as her creative strength, with a collection based on maths, with algorithms and complicated fractals informing multi-coloured designs. “It’s not a massive collection,” says a spokeswoman for the brand, “but it is intense.” The multicoloured chord is struck as links are designed to be versatile rather than mono-coloured in order to match with more outfits.

The same goes for the ties, which reflect the cuff link designs and are for the first time made in the UK as the brand switches tie production from Italy and becomes a 100% British made brand. Like the links, the ties are designed to be versatile and worn for everyday and occasionwear. New for the season is the brand’s pen collection, coming in silver and coloured styles.

Find Babette Wasserman at Stand 36 in the L’Altro Uomo hall.

Eton Shirts     
The peacockish and detail-driven shirt maker Eton has three themes fuelling its autumn 10 collection – Autumn Jazz, Northern Soul and the dramatically named Hostage of Love. Autumn Jazz uses apalette of toned down brights – saturated yellow, cobalt blue, orange and red, with patterns including multicolour stripes, 80s style paisleys and vibrant liberty prints. Northern Soul is based on a palette of blues and browns with accents in green, red and black. To create an interesting contrast the hues are paired with luxurious fabrics and traditional checks and herringbones are mixed with dots for an eccentric look.  
Hostage of Love is a mix of bold stripes and checks in saturated jewel tones. Pink and purple, fuchsia, dark red and lilac contrast with dark blue, grey and black. The materials chosen are twill, satin and poplin with a luxurious feel that together.

Check out the three collections, which are timed for different drops to allow retailers to refresh their stores, at stand S10 on the lower ground floor of the central pavilion.

Hackett   
       

At its home in the stone Polveriera building, Hackett is arguably the most significant exhibitor at Pitti Uomo and the 77th edition of the show will see the brand leverage its impact to highlight the evolution of its popular Mayfair collection. The range has transcended its city suit origins to develop a full range, still drawing on its late 50s/early 60s inspiration. Formalwear is new to the range while slim tailoring silhouettes and fine gauge polo tops line up alongside key pieces like the knitted blazer lined with shirting fabric. Knitwear varies from fine to textured in merino and cashmere and the colour palette remains tight in navy, pearl grey, pale blue and aubergine . Other highlights include the Rally range, based on vintage motoring; Oxford Blues, which uses a heritage university handwriting to usher in a youthful irreverent look with narrow bow-ties, duffle coats and flannel blazers lined with union jack prints. The Alpine, Winter Spa and Aston Martin Racing stories will also be paraded at the show. 

Hackett will be based in the stone building called the Polveriera near the central pavilion

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