Brand DNAs formed the identity of spring 13 menswear rather than trends
Menswear is never one to rely heavily on trends and spring 13 is proving to be no exception. But the sector seemed to play up to its reputation more than ever at trade show Pitti Uomo in Florence, with buyers scratching their heads when having to articulate what was new in terms of trends.
Not that it overly concerned them. “It says it all, really,” said Allan Winstanley, executive director of menswear and kidswear at House of Fraser. “People are being cautious. But Pitti is always a great show and it was the brands that stayed true to themselves that looked good, like Gant, Hartford and Hackett. No one who I’ve spoken to said: ‘Oh, did you see so-and-so,’” he added, explaining that there were no standout brands or trends.
That’s not to say the collections didn’t impress. With the high temperature – anyone wearing a blazer was clearly hiding perspiration patches – it was hard to picture even the most fashionable males wearing the beautiful jackets on display, but wear them they will, so impressive were the designs and fabrication. Performancewear, technical fabrics – with lightweight or cooling qualities – and sports-inspired pieces dominated brands’ collections.
Last spring’s colour burst also continued into spring 13 but the shades of yellow, orange, plum and green were softer, with pastels featuring in some collections. It was through print that brands moved on from spring 12, with florals in particular playing a key role.
With an impressive UK buyer turnout, it’s clear that Pitti remains an important stop on the menswear buying calendar, new trends or not.