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Première Vision: Autumn 13

Our prediction for the key themes from the Paris textile show.

From September 19 to 21, Paris was overtaken by the biggest names in the fabric world, as mills, manufacturers and designers descended on the French capital. As one the of biggest and earliest textile shows, Première Vision is a must-visit each season (as highlighted in this week’s Style Council, on page 28) and gives an early insight into the key themes and trends for autumn 13.

“The weavers were fantastic, resulting in a creative season,” says Première Vision fashion director Pascaline Wilhelm. “It’s important to be optimistic because everyone speaks about the [economic] crisis and what can we do to make it better. The answer from Première Vision’s weavers is to believe in creation, colour and development and that is fantastic.”

Design teams were out in force, spotted scouring the vast halls for the latest fabrics. “Première Vision was busy as usual with a particularly strong presence from the Asian market,” says Sarah Greig, designer of men’s formalwear at House of Fraser.

“The whole vintage and heritage look was prevalent again with mills showing chunky tweeds and over checks.”

“The most exciting fabrications for me were the metallic jacquards, sporty bondings and new quilting,” says Joanna Gisborne-Land, designer at Linea Weekend and Dickens & Jones. “Modern twists on traditional fabrics were interesting, as were prints of tweeds and vintage tapestry.”

Here we predict the key directions for textiles come autumn 13.

Opulent Modernity

“One theme for the season will have an opulent feel with lots of richness but in a subtle way, not bling-bling,” says Première Vision fashion director Pascaline Wilhelm. “It has a historical feel, but we’re looking to the future, it is not nostalgic.” There are lots of jacquards, stripes and little checks that are very decorative, but not lots of colour, according Wilhelm, alongside a hairy direction with fleeces, mohairs and lots of velvet.

● Soft furs, chunky velvets and comfortable oversized fleeces give a cosy, luxe feel

● Decorative and ornamental tapestry prints, jacquards and embossed fabrics are spotted as brocades, devore, flocking and velvets, but also updated on casuals like denim

● Burnished and antiqued metallics are key with copper colours standing out

Cosy Fluidity

Wilhelm predicts that autumn 13 will have a “fluidity, but with more weight to it so it’s not a watery fluidity but syrupy, thicker and heavier”. She adds: “There will be a big story of velvet that is soft and cosy. This is all about softness, with excellent, well-brushed wools.”

● Ultra soft, cosy and super tactile textiles are silky and smooth. Mixing chunky thick fabrics with flowing, fluid styles with stretch is also an important factor

● Colourful flecked fabrics, moleskins and fleeces sit alongside knobbly knits and lace

● Ombréd and fading patterns feature alongside loose-thread finishes

Urban Outdoors

“We have also seen a theme that looks at the city as the land of adventure,” says Wilhelm, ”mixing the natural with the urban”. There is a big story for double-faced styles and reversible options, influenced by workwear, but in a sophisticated way. “There is a lot of surprising textures, where you cannot tell if something is wool or synthetic,” she explains.

● Combining and contrasting performance and fashion give a new take on workwear

● Mixing naturals and synthetics to create layers, alongside double-faced and reversible creations combining naturals, like wool, bonded with synthetics, like foam

● Blurred camouflages, collaged photographics, mini geometrics and micro grid prints and patterns all feature

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