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Première Vision

From tweed to lace, leading mills unveiled their key fabric trends for next autumn at the Paris show.

Johnstons of Elgin

A style of ‘unfinished finishes’ came through, and rougher mill washes stood out. Worn and aged finishes were key, while an array of coloured tweeds and oversized herringbones also caught the eye. A double-faced fabric in 100% cashmere was noted.

Contact: 020 7227 3131

Malhia Kent

This Parisian mill specialises in unusual textiles for the luxury ready-to-wear market, with a focus on colourful tweed updates. A green and black tweed in an exaggerated houndstooth pattern stood out, made from a treated paper that is woven with wool and cotton.

Contact: 00 33 01 53 44 76 76

Jakob Schlaepfer

A polyester tulle stitched onto a wool gauze base stood out, while a printed, aluminium-coated organza gave an iridescent finish. Glow-in-the dark sequinned textiles were available, alongside a ‘sequin fur’ featuring 1 million sequins stitched onto 6 sq m of fabric.

Contact: 00 41 07 12 74 92 92


This linen specialist has looked at new ways of integrating the fabric into winter wardrobes, resulting in mixed linen, silk and cashmere blends, as well as alpaca. Solbiati’s use of a linen warp and cashmere weft has created a textile that combines softness with structure.

Contact: 020 7494 2737

Henry Bertrand

Alongside Henry Bertrand’s usual silk and silk blend offer, the UK mill used escorial for the first time this season. A rare wool that comes from only three flocks of sheep, escorial was blended with silk for a more cost-effective textile that maintains the softness of cashmere.

Contact: 020 7424 7000


This lace specialist introduced patterned, flocked lace alongside floral patterns trimmed with tiny sequins for a metallic effect. An abstract, two-layered lace with triangular embroidery garnered attention and was nominated for a Première Vision award.

Contact: 00 33 06 74 41 75 76

Laurent Garigue

Providing textiles for the high-end womenswear market, this mill’s eye-catching offer of tweeds and mohairs stood out in both traditional colourways and a range of modern rainbow tones. A selection of pleated, 3D wool crêpes were new for this season.

Contact: 020 7371 1777

Loden Steiner

The Austrian felting specialist offered a wide range of coloured felted and flocked wools. Standout options included intricate, laser-cut fabrics in a range of floral, paisley and geometric patterns, while stitched styles came in both abstract and floral designs.

Contact: 00 43 06 45 47 203

Key trends

  • Chunky tweeds  The continued focus on heritage styles meant tweeds were key for autumn 12. Thicker styles stood out in both earthy tones and a bright, modern palette.
  • 3D surfaces A host of textiles featured textured 3D surfaces that created interest for both clothing and accessories. Quilted surfaces were updated into flowing shapes.
  • Double faced The trend for double-faced textiles continued to be important, from subtle changes to bold coloured differences. Heritage contrasts, in particular, were key.

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