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Première Vision

Graeme Moran

This important date in the textile buying diary provided an early pointer of the trends for spring 13.

Starting on February 14, Première Vision opened its doors at Parc d’Expositions in Paris to visitors ready to fall in love with spring 13 textiles over three days of full-on fabric buying.

Affectionately known as PV, the show is widely considered as the key date in the textile world’s diary. It marks the beginning of the new season, with more than 670 mills and manufacturers showing their collections in the vast exhibition space just outside of the city centre, giving an insight into next season’s trends.

More than ever, the show drew in crowds from all over the world and across the fashion industry, with the likes of All Saints, Carven, Balenciaga and Isabel Marant all rumoured to be in attendance. Henry Holland, who would show his autumn 12 House of Holland collection at London Fashion Week just two days later, was spotted on stands – the fact he took time out of his fashion week preparations underlines the importance of Première Vision .

“To know what’s going on in the textile world and what’s coming next in fashion you have to be here more than any of the other textile shows, and that’s why everyone is here,” said Laurent Garigue, founder of fabric manufacturer Laurent Garigue Partnership. “This is the place to be if you want to have your finger on the pulse.”

As ever, the designers and buyers Drapers spoke to were reluctant to reveal what fabrics and from whom they had been ordering for fear of giving away the foundations of their upcoming spring 13 collections, but the emerging trends, listed opposite, do give an indication of where fashion is moving next.

The next edition of Première Vision will take place on September 19 to 21 – a definite date for the diary. 

Spring 13 gets the neon treatment

One trend any PV visitor couldn’t help but notice was the return of shining neons and fluorescent pastels across the entire show – think highlighter pen pinks, greens, yellows and oranges. It’s going to be a bright season come spring 13.

Described as “aggressive brights” by one textile designer Drapers spoke to, these vivid shades looked best when updating the girly pastoral romance trend we’ve seen for several spring seasons. Traditional lace, guipure and broderie anglaise were all soaked in neons or highlighted with accents, while tweeds and wovens were flecked and sprinkled with eye-catching tones. This freshens up the feminine romance style by contrasting crisp summer whites with vibrant neon pops.

Prints, too, were given the new neon treatment, with the most popular style being reworked florals in zany shades. Other florals were also noted across the show, and there were new styles emerging for the coming season. There were darker jungle and forest patterns and bright tropical Hawaii gardens, with digital mash-ups of different flower prints for a new take on summery florals.

Elsewhere, plastic, sheen and shine were key words across the show. There were true plastic fabrics that created a glossy futuristic look – key examples ranged from completely transparent to smoky translucent – while more commercial-bonded, coated and waxed finishes created the plastic-look. This was particularly noted on light linens, which have been growing in popularity over recent seasons and looked interesting in new coated water-resistant styles.

While the plastic introduced shine to fabrics, sparkle came through with the use of metallic weaves within light, summer-appropriate tweeds. Other directions include a return to lingerie inspirations with a focus on lace, and double-facing in contrasted designs. Lightness was a word on many people’s lips, created through the use of translucent and transparent fabrics.

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