Jo Davies, Owner of womenswear indie Black White Denim and Lewis Tweddell, Owner of contemporary indie Lewis Yates.
Jo Davies, Owner of womenswear indie Black White Denim
We’ve come to Pure London to see if we’re missing anything, any brand that would fit into our mix and gives a good margin. With competition from department stores, we need to find brands that offer a better mark-up – 2.7 is the average but we need above 3. This is harder with the bigger brands, but smaller suppliers are more flexible in terms of minimum spend. I don’t think some brands understand the importance of minimum orders. I’m also looking for more short-order brands and brands that have more regular drops throughout the season.
Our budget is split 80% forward order and 20% short order – we’ve devoted a bit more to short order for autumn 12.
I thought [footwear brand] French Sole looked good – I wish the Premium area was bigger.
Print is definitely a strong trend for next season and will work well for us, as will texture. I didn’t buy much into outerwear for autumn 11 – which turned out to be a good thing given the mild weather – but I am looking for a good outerwear brand for next autumn.
Lewis Tweddell, Owner of contemporary indie Lewis Yates
The Footwear and Accessories areas are more relevant for us because we’re a premium boutique. It would be good if the Premium [ready-to-wear] section at Pure London was bigger. [Accessories brand] Becksöndergaard has a great collection – the quality is lovely and the price points are good. And Love From Australia is doing lovely quilted sheepskin boots.
In terms of trends for autumn 12, there is a lot of texture – a lot of velours and some lace – and heritage is still going to be key. The colour palette of mustard, burgundy and moss green looks good too.
Trading has been good, with turnover steady and in line with last year. Our budget is staying the same compared with last year – we cut it from autumn 10 to autumn 11.
We’re trying to find exclusive brands to get better margins. Because of the weather, we’ve delayed the launch of our spring 12 collection in store – we have a big launch party for the new season and invite our customers. The spring 12 in-season presentation at Pure London was really useful.