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Pure London: mood of the show

Drapers talks to key brands and buyers to find out their thoughts from day one at Pure London.

“It’s been a very good start and a fantastic first morning. The show feels fresh and very open. Everyone is turning a corner and there’s more optimism as I think we’re over the worst. Buyers have been looking for an injection of newness. They want less eveningwear now, they’re looking for more versatile pieces that have to be distinctive. Basics have died, everyone has had to adapt their ranges to give a point of difference and offer some wow factor.”

Noreen Puri, brand director at Pomodoro

“It has been busy already and the new look is nice. Buyers are still very budget aware but its not as apparent as previous seasons. If buyers like it, price isn’t an issue now though. They’re looking for more transitional pieces as the weather is so unpredictable. They do want colour which is refreshing.”

Pauline Wickens, Yacco Maricard

“This season is definitely more upbeat, we have been selling for three weeks now and we are already 50% up on last season. Having taken the team in house this season has really restored people’s faith in the brand and buyers are feeling a lot more confident.”

Rachel Wiles, UK and Ireland country sales manager, Bitte Kai Rand

“The mood of this season has been mixed, some of our big accounts that are doing things well are doing well but others are struggling. We’re hoping to get 20 new accounts for Tramontana at Pure this year, it’s an important show for attracting new clients.  Pure is really the only UK show for us, Moda is a bit too frumpy.”

Chris Foster- Orr, managing director, FOS Fashion Marketing

“It’s been going really well so far this season, we’ve listened to our customers and introduced more colour into the collection. Buyers are definitely more upbeat compared to last year. The economy is better, people have more money in their pockets and they are spending it. It has been our best season for the last four or five years.”

Hari Krishnadasan, managing director, Capri clothing company

“Buyers are happier to take risks and definitely want newness coming through - there is more money and confidence than a year ago, when people were playing it safe. Now people are more ambitious and more confident - partly I think it’s that our brand has more visibilty now, but it’s also because people are seeing an uplift in the market. I was at Bubble and it was the same there.”

Martine Joule, head of wholesale product, Joules

“Footfall has looked good so far and we have had plenty of interest from buyers. I really like the new layout - gives the show a fresh look and forces people to come across new brands, which is great. If you don’t introduce these changes from time to time it can become a bit too familiar.”

John Oakes, multichannel marketing manager, Joules

“It has been busy since it opened and we have already got some new customers who have put in orders - all independent stockists. We are finding that people are still buying on a budget, but reasonably priced stuff is working. So far I like what I’ve seen from the changes here - we did have some concerns about some of the plans, but we talked to them and they listened to us, so we’re happy.”

Ben Haywood, sales director at Amari Fashions
“We have been manic so far and we expect to be right until Tuesday afternoon. It used to be busier for us in the summer editions but now we have expanded our knitwear so it’s more 50-50. Pure is of course facing more competition from Scoop, but it is a slightly different market - this has a greater geographical scope whereas Scoop tends to be more southeast-focused - and footfall tends to be lower there.”

Sabina Ebrahim, sales manager at Charli

“This season we’ve been to Bread and Butter, Who’s Next and now Pure. For us B&B is more about image than actually taking orders. We found it was a good show with lots of international buyers, but less from the UK. Whereas at Who’s Next we actually found that there were even less UK buyers, but the ones that did attend that show actually placed more orders. So for us Who’s Next is more a show where we actually take orders. Overall the mood among buyers seems to be positive.”

Isabella Sferrazza, brand manager, Silvian Heach

“This season we have showed at Bread & Butter, Who’s Next, Pure, Magic, Coterie and we are also just confirming another in Italy. Paris’ Who’s Next was the best for us. We don’t usually enjoy it too much but we got loads of new contact details, meet international distributors and buyers. It was great. I’ve not noticed any negativity at all. It is a really positive season so far.”

Sharon Fraser, sales manager at women’s young fashion brand Glamorous

“We’ve has a lot of repeat orders already this season. The pink shades are flying on Paper Dolls as well as the printed floral jackets. The season has been really great so far. Pure has been so busy, it’s buzzing. We’ve already had seven customers on the stand, and this is the best position we’ve been in so far. There is a really big turnout from Ireland.”

Mark Ashton, chief executive of Little Mistress Group

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