Womenswear brands used a variety of contrasting fabrics to update the trend for texture while the cape gave knitwear a new direction
Contemporary womenswear brands continued their love affair with texture at Pure London this week, moving on from the leather and velvet of last autumn to deliver new directions for autumn 11.
Texture was largely played out via contrast fabrics. Lurex knits teamed up with faux-snakeskin panelling, wool cosied up to felt and sheer fabrics partnered with fine-gauge knits at the premium end of the market.
Fur, too, added to the texture trend, with the majority of womenswear brands including it in their collections. From the genuine article to faux fur, the fabric was seen all over coats, on gilets or as a trim. Among real furs, racoon and rabbit were particularly popular.
With the recent cold winters still fresh in brands’ minds, chunky knits continued to be an important category at Pure London, but while Fair Isle knits were still around, it was the cable knit that stood out. Long, belted cardigans sat alongside traditional jumper styles and cropped, button-up cardigans.
A genuinely new direction was offered by the cape, as most brands embraced the style in their collections. Predominantly seen as a knit, the cape will offer indies a new category in knitwear. However, the jury is out on how practical and commercial the cape will be. With no sleeves and a chunky item to wear, it is sometimes difficult to team with a coat.
As for colour, a sea of greys and creams pervaded the strade show stands, lifted by warm tobacco tones at the more directional labels and rich purples at the mainstream labels.