The Swedish fashion week’s leading lights tell us what British buyers should know about their collections.
Design duo Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome are Sweden’s brightest rising stars, with their womenswear label Altewaisaome.
“We looked at the images of women by photographer Deborah Turbeville. They’re subtle but with a strong femininity,” said Saome. This femininity is translated this season as sexy V-neck dresses with split skirts or innovative wraparound shapes and louche tailoring wrapped and belted for a modern take - feminine but far from girly.
”We did a lot more jackets this season too, slightly oversized but with that feminine touch, again often belted,” added Saome. An oversized bomber jacket stood out. Buyers looking for eveningwear with a unique twist may like this label.
There was a refreshing riot of colour from up-and-comer Caroline Kummelstedt, whose simple and wearable pieces perked up Stockholm’s generally subdued palette. “I’ve never used this much colour before,” she told Drapers. “But I stuck with an oversized silhouette. I just feel most comfortable designing with it - it’s cool and easy to wear”. Wide and deep V-neck tops and dresses with spacious swinging sleeves were on show, or simple sleeveless shirts and shirt dresses with pointy oversized collars. Extra wide culottes featured again - a bottoms trend carrying over from spring 14 - all of which will appeal to a bold and youthful shopper.
An Eastern edge brought a new season update to Carin Wester’s eponymous label, with its D-ring belts and overlapping wrapped shapes making an impact. “There was a bit of a Japanese take, looking at Japan in spring and the costumes and traditional uniforms of the past but twisted with new layers, organza and silk,” explained Wester.
Tops featured overlapping panels, blazers had layered sections and side buckle straps and trousers were given folded front fastenings, all nodding to a judo-like Eastern look. “The wrap trousers have already been successful with buyers, as well as the wrapped blazer and the trouser suit,” added Wester. An oversized soft bomber jacket, frilled-sleeve silky dress and statement shoulderless jumpsuits also stood out. The brand is represented by Make Lemonade in the UK.
Currently stocked by Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols in the UK, Dagmar’s sleek and concise range has taken a fuller-shaped approach for spring 15. Central to the collection were swishy pleat-front and wide-legged shorts, shin-height culottes and floor-skimming trousers, blending smart tailoring with a more relaxed vibe.
Skirts came mid-length and featured sharp pleats, while a fuller A-line skirted dress will catch the eye of many shoppers. The biker jacket, a staple of Swedish brands, came collarless with minimal detailing, and a bomber jacket continued the luxed-up take on sporty dressing, all in an accessible palette of black, grey and sand.
Ann-Sofie Back is arguably one of Sweden’s most famous fashion exports, recognised as the real boundary pusher of Stockholm with her directional brand Back.
For spring 15, signatures from collections past and present returned, but this also felt like a step in a new direction - a smartened up and more approachable style focusing on a more wearable A-line shape and a neutral palette of grey and camel. “I wanted to return to the bare shoulders,” said Back, speaking of the dramatic off-shoulder jackets, shirts and tops that formed part of her take on smart work suits. “I changed the silhouette too.
I’ve always done a straight up and down shape, but I wanted a waist this season, which is different
The latest collection from Filippa K covered lots of the key trends that emerged during the fashion week. Belted details were the top story, cinching in flowing coats and finishing off loose wrap dresses.”
It started with the materials [this season], looking at rich and tactile fabrics usually used for [winter] but translating them to spring,” said Filippa K head of design Nina Bogstedt at her presentation.
These trans-seasonal materials gave depth to the brand’s signature relaxed yet stylish simplicity. Buyers looking for transitional pieces should take note.