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Stockholm Fashion Week: Day one show report

Hunkydory kicked of the rainy spring 15 edition of Stockholm fashion week with a cool and breezy collection of easy separates, loose layers and silky textures.

Icy blues contrasted with tougher khaki, with key pieces including light silk blouses, utility pocketed tops, shorts and jumpsuits and a fringed collarless summer coat that had a very commercial edge.

Filippa K’s head of design Nina Bogstedt told Drapers at her show:  “It started with the materials [this season], looking at rich and tactile fabrics usually used for [winter] but translating them to spring”. This resulted in a buttery soft seventies-style suede belted coat and matching pencil skirt, thin wool blanket coats and T-shirts in 100% merino wool, all light enough to transition from winter to spring. Elsewhere, chunky knits were given summery short sleeves, while loose wide leg trousers finished off the simple, relaxed yet stylish look.

It was slick rock and rollers from J Linderberg for spring 15, with nods to every iconic decade’s fashion stars. There were modish skinny cut blazers, heavy metal leather biker jackets, punky leather trousers and the silky shirts of the New Romantics. Their groupie girlfriends wore leopard print denim, pretty feathered and sequinned jackets under worn-in parkas and sexy leather shorts. Head of design Jessy Heuvelink told Drapers backstage: “Last season was the starting pointing. Playing with that rock and roll feel but it was dark with lots of leather [for autumn 14] so I lifted it with light suede and more playful colours”. J Linderberg’s womenswear collection will fully launch in the UK for spring 15.

Oscar Jacobson kept things super smart and luxe, with a signature tailoring collection of white, green and gold. Slim DB suits were the focus, in 100% cashmere with real mother of pearl buttons.

Ida Sjöstedt’s signature lace-laden girl went bad this season, in a collection entitled “Queen of F*cking Everything”. A youthful and directional start to the show is sure to appeal to and influence the young fashion market, featuring sequined florals on dresses, sheer slashes on leggings, hand painted lace separates and fun logo denim. More delicate lingerie-like lace dresses closed the show, featuring peek-a-boo panelling and slits high up to the thigh.

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