Retro themes, bold colours, slim fits and washed-out fabrics are just some of the influences this season.
Name Sean Gormley
Job Title Denim design manager
Design The three seasonal trends are updated classics (including Western styles), uniform-inspired looks and colour. We have a major launch in our women’s collection, a revolutionary rethink of the benefits of wearing jeans.
Colours Bold colour is in full effect for women. Pop colours such as cherry red and apple green look fantastic against faded summer blues. Contrast is important for men but more restrained, such as indigo with khaki, military green or dusty orange.
Fabrics Wrangler has paid a lot of attention to how fabrics feel this season. The women’s line includes sateen-weave denim that is soft and smooth.
Silhouettes New women’s fits launching including Corynn, a sexy, sophisticated update of the regular skinny and Shennan, a revision of the tailored boyfriend fit. For men, slim Spencer is the outstanding fit with the most dramatic vintage washes, while regular-tapered Ben gives a great blend of heritage and modern.Supporting our stockists is this year’s business priority.
Pepe Jeans London
Name Thierry Pesce Giuliano
Job Title Men’s design director
Design New this season is the Beach range, with washed-out vintage aloha prints on hoodies and shirts. Elsewhere, a preppy wardrobe of modern classics comes in a colour-soaked palette. Slim shapes dominate with Oxford shirts and laundered field jackets. The outdoors-inspired Active range brings multi-pocket jackets and unstructured blazers.
Colours We’ve delivered one of our most exciting palettes with a real emphasis on subtle pastels.
Fabrics We’ve created that authentic lived-in, well-loved and worn-out look. In some cases we’ve used water-based prints and a cold pigment dying process.
Silhouettes Slim, slim, slim. It’s the defining silhouette of this generation.
Prices £12 to £98.
Name Luke Roper
Job Title Creative director
Design The theme for spring 13 is Full Service History which encompasses modern takes on classic silhouettes versus technical functionality. I’ve focused on technical fabrics and moved away from heritage. Inspirations include some vintage military pieces I found from my travels. Spring 13 also sees an exciting move on for Luke jeans, with some fantastic new washes and summer coloured denim.
Colours Dark navy is the summer staple with spice, aubergine and aged orange among the highlight colours for the season.
Fabrics I’ve developed some luxury technical fabrics and we are working with a small mill in Taiwan and have some very special technical nylons and coated cottons.
Silhouettes Clean, multi-seamed sharp shapes are the silhouettes for spring 13; technical but functional.
Prices Our price points, £12 to £115, will remain the same for spring 13 as for spring 12.
Name Yoc Codrington
Job Title Creative director
Design In womenswear we injected nautical references and in menswear we built upon colour blocking and large prints. We had images of 1960s Letraset typography, Japanese Americana and the faded colour blocking of Charles and Ray Eames.
Colours Washed primary colours, offering reds, blues and yellows alongside complementary tans, greys and white.
Fabrics For women we’ve designed bespoke prints – hand-painted chevron tiles, Japanese dotted patterns and a 1960s-style wallpaper print – combined with lightweight knits and transparent jersey. In menswear there are oversized geometric camouflage and geometric knitwear.
Silhouettes Womenswear consists of pieces that can be dressed up with heels, such as a woven playsuit, and easy-fit pieces such as an unstructured shawl-collared jacket. Men’s reflects an interchangeable wardrobe where customers can wear a hooded shell jacket over a long-sleeved shirt and chino short.
Name Sunny Aytan
Job Title Brand owner
Design This is the first season we have separated our collection into distinct trend capsules. Prepstars delivers a super-bright slim-kid interpretation of the preppy look; Summer Camp delivers a washed-out palette of print-led casuals; while Aztec-print T-shirts are paired with carrot-shaped denim shorts and multicolour flecked T-shirts.
Colours Washed-out pastel shades are key. Prints such as the woodland camo and vintage tropical prints are also important.
Fabrics It’s a cotton-heavy collection, but on outerwear we’re backing the emerging trend for technical-led sportier styles with some performance fabrics which will be new to Criminal Damage.
Silhouettes The biggest shirt silhouette will be the classic Oxford with button-down collar. We’ve slimmed up the proportions for our trend-savvy customer and have some innovative fabric selections. On outerwear it’s about tailored multi-pocket parkas.
Prices We’re keeping our pricing steady, at £8 to £30, to help stockists through these challenging trading conditions and we’re building more options into our opening
Name Gavin Skelton
Job Title Head of design
Design The creative direction for spring 13 is Re-Fresh: clean and sharp lines coupled with sport and street influences.
Colours We always approach colour with two segments: core and seasonal. Core consists of navy, khaki, white and grey marl. Seasonal is the fun part and consists of three stories: Bottle Bank, which is a mixture of blues; Summer Berries, which features strong reds; and Indian Summer, which consists of warm yellows.
Fabrics We’ve focused on moving into more sports and streetwear this season so waxed coated nylons are a new development. A key fabric is the return to Boxfresh’s staple –camouflage, in the form of a digital pattern.
Silhouettes We’ve kept our waxed-cotton parka, but updated it to a hybrid of a mod parka with sports ribs at the collar and cuffs.
Prices We’ve kept prices competitive, at £8 to £52, but expanded our offer on lower-priced jackets and T-shirts.
Duck and Cover
Name Robert Beirne
Job Title Senior designer
Design There are three main themes: the first is a mix of workwear meets yachtsman, covering coated outerwear, knits and washed denims. The second references traditional tradesmen. Finally, High Summer sees brighter colours, strong patterns and prints come through.
Colours Blues are key references, whether clean and smart or raw, weathered and worn out. Workwear browns and sepia naturals are accented with rust and ginger. Vegetal greens and aquatic blues combine with chalky pastels for the summer line.
Fabrics Denim and indigo appear across the collection including a range of indigo-dyed jerseys and chambray shirts. Rustic textures and stripe blocking are key for knitwear and link in with the marled and slubbed fabrics. Prints play a major part on shirts, jersey and linings, ranging from 1950s-style themes to Japanese patterns.
Silhouettes On jackets, the summer trench and seafaring parkas make statement silhouettes while the shorter Harrington and denim jackets bring fresh styling for layering. Chinos and workwear pants offer a narrow hem with a 3D-shaped or tapered silhouette.
Prices £10 to £46.
Name Charlie Heath
Job Title Senior designer
Design Sports heritage and the bike polo trend are the primary inspiration. One of the key drivers in this season’s collection is our Lombardia Tour story, which dates back to 1905. The main part of our collection is a vintage cycling-inspired theme and draws on a key period in the event’s history, the 1960s.
Colours Powder lilacs, dusty blues and antique yellows inspired by vintage cycling apparel inject a fresh pastel feel. These make a statement when mixed together but also work well with some core colours.
Fabrics Performance and ergonomic fabrics dominate, with technical and lightweight fabric used throughout. We’ve put an emphasis on soft and luxurious feels.
Silhouettes We took advantage of trips to suppliers in Europe and the US to source some cool vintage cycling pieces. We’ve adapted the shapes and given them a modern twist.
Prices £12 to £38.
Name Sarah Mellor
Job Title Designer
Design We structured the collection around the ‘Weekend Offender lad’, what he would wear and what would suit his lifestyle. This is seen in the clothes for spring 13 which are minimal styles with all design features being functional – stylish yet fun.
Colours The spring 13 palette is bright and strong. Emerald is a key jacket colour along with Lazio blue. To complement the blues and greens we’ve used amber and a shocking orange, while shirts are in clean blue and nightshade navy.
Fabrics Beeswax three-times-coated cottons for jackets add a technical, water-repellent quality. We’ve also developed a new style of marl with lines of flecked colour running throughout.
Silhouettes This season there is a clean, straight and slim silhouette. The collection has developed and matured over the past few seasons.
Prices There have been no changes to the price, but expect to see better-quality fabric and interesting details throughout.