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The new weave

Three industry experts tell Drapers about the key trends for spring 13, offering a guide to standout colours, prints and directions for upcoming trade show Première Vision and beyond.

Pascaline Wilhelm

Pascaline Wilhelm

Pascaline Wilhelm - Fashion director, Première Vision

This season we will see more innovation in terms of new blends and new ways of constructing fabrics – winter can be more creative than spring but this season is different.

At Première Vision we’ll see bridges between natural and synthetic, and not just to [offer] a good price, but to try to find a new touch and new behaviours through blends. Synthetics will be big, with plastic shine and plastic lAooks – plastic is chic this season and smoothness will play into this.

There will be lots of layering of light pieces in terms of fluidity and subtleness, with silks, guipure and laser cutting. Transparency takes on a feminine feel creating a trend of romanticism and it will be modern, rather than typically nostalgic. There is subtleness in a feminine way for both men and women, with formal, light wools or casual, supple cottons.

Natural finishes are more elaborate, creating a sophisticated unfinished look that’s not rough. Mixing ideas is something that is interesting too, so double-faced styles will continue into spring 13.

For the development of new fabrics, innovative designers create lots of answers with new eco-initiatives, such as organic cottons, recycled and synthetic options, as well as new waterless processes.

Beryl Gibson - Textile and colour consultant, UKFT (UK Fashion and Textile Association)

Beryl Gibson

Beryl Gibson

Spring 13 is a very creative season with an exciting colour range. There are two core colour families coming through – blue and red – with touches of pink that take on a blue influence. Green also emerges but it has a blue influence too, not natural olives but teal, jade and sage, as well as dark forest greens.

In contrast, there is a lot of white and off-white that brings a very fresh, clean and minimal feel, as well as black and white worked together, which is simple and strong. Neons will pop up again for spring 13 and will act as accents or be worked with white for glowing shades.

For print and pattern, there are much larger-scale options than seen previously. These bold designs will be worked as placement panels rather than all-over pieces. Geometrics are also coming through in black and white, and there are ethnic voodoo prints and new printed textures to create handcrafted primitive looks. Florals are given tropical island effects.

Stripes seem to be more key than checks for the coming season – really neat pinstripes, university stripes and herringbone stripes all seem to be winning the day for suiting in particular.

Ruth Greany - Associate textiles editor and textile trend forecaster, WGSN

Ruth Greany

Ruth Greany

We no longer expect to solely see wool for winter and linen for summer. [Having said that] linen’s popularity will grow in spring 13, with fibre blends and advancements in spinning offering a broader range of end-uses, which include clean finish, formal fabrics and lightweight jerseys.

Last season, linen fibres were often blended with wool, cotton and mohair for trans-seasonal suiting, outerwear or fancy jerseys. This season, we expect summer-weight wool in lightweight jerseys or blended with linen or cotton for cool suiting or textured tweeds.

Double-facing will continue into spring 13 with contrasting textural surfaces and pop-colour highlights. Raw, cultivated aesthetics with noble fibres and natural slubs, neps and knops will offer beautiful, organic textures in both casual and formalwear. Texture will create characterful wovens and jerseys that have an unexpected lightness in handle.

Dispersed light will inspire prismatic ombré and degradé colour effects, ultra-lightweight layered chiffon and vibrant tweeds. Lurex and metallic fibres will bring an explosive quality to fancy fabrics.

Verdant green is key, supported by bright, cyclamen pink and pale, celestial blue, while black and white will anchor the season.

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