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Womenswear Autumn 12

Mannish proportions and 1960s silhouettes are backed for autumn 12 as pops of colour enliven traditional autumn shades.

Custo Barcelona

Name Custodio Dalmau  Job title Head designer

Design We worked on a fusion of colour, graphics and materials to create a contemporary language of style and develop a wardrobe of colourful and creative pieces for both women and men.

Colours White, neutral tones and paler colours are mixed with darker shades like black or burgundy, with touches of vivid colours such as fuchsia and green.

Fabrics We’ve used many types of wool and silks that are often covered in prints, alongside fake furs to create motion.

Silhouettes There are oversized sweaters mixed with tiny dresses and mini jackets that all come together to make a style of contradiction.

Prices In the same price range as last season.

Luisa Cerano

Name Alexandra Lenz Job title Head of design

Design The season is about the retrospective, creating a relaxed understanding of chic. On the one hand, we have the 1960s celebrating a comeback with short and boxy styles, and on the other the 1970s and early 1980s play an important role. And through all of this runs the high art of material patching.

Colours Luxurious opal, black and chalk sit alongside feminine powdery pastels or bright red and clementine. Elsewhere are touches of emerald and amethyst with neutrals such as dark grey and walnut.

Fabrics Technical crêpe for a new femininity, cupro jersey, technical flannel and silk crêpe.

Silhouettes A simple, geometric design remains modern and valid. Boxy knitted pullovers are worn with pencil skirts and narrow trousers.

Prices The price of wool has increased. Wholesale prices for basics and most other items are the same.

Fullcircle

Name Hina Rahman  Job title Creative director

Design Brimming with Middle Eastern promise, the collection takes inspiration from a rich tapestry of colours and architectural lines to inspire elaborate designs that feature a rich colour palette and detailed prints. These prints include Islamic tiles and Persian tapestry florals.

Colours We have a neutral palette of black, sand, granite, pebble and winter white. This is beautifully layered with jewelled autumnal tones of grenadine red, mallard green, sapphire and electric blue.

Fabrics Blurred wool meltons, chunky cables and furs sit comfortably among technical nylons and metallic marl knits, not forgetting silks and chiffons.

Silhouettes Separate dressing and luxury layering are key parts of the collection, with an array of hem lengths in long, lean silhouettes.

Prices No changes.

MiH Jeans

Name Chloe Lonsdale Job title Founder and creative director

Design Our main collection enhances the classic MiH offering with some beautiful new super-stretch denims along with wool-mix tailoring fabrics in our well-known fits. Core cuts such as the Marrakesh and Oslo shapes in our new tailoring fabrics will introduce us to a whole new market, as well as being interesting to our existing customers. We’re also introducing knitwear for the first time.

Colours Cool faded blues with rich, dusky highlights.

Fabrics We’ve chosen a fantastic four-by-two denim, washed down with some beautiful over-dye effects and some heavier rigid denims.

Silhouettes We have a gorgeous A-line silhouette which is a great move on from the wide-leg jean. It has a really nostalgic vibe. Our skinny Marrakesh in a super-fit denim gives the ultimate leg-lengthening kick.

Prices No change. With new items in the collection our range now goes up to £995 RRP for a limited-edition leather jacket.

Betty Barclay

Name Birgit Göthner Job title Head designer

Design The collection is inspired by the 1940s, 1970s and especially the 1960s, updated with a new interpretation to create a clean and feminine look.

Colours Key colours include shades of red, burnt orange and lilac, combined with sand, toffee and brown. Black comes with grey, electric blue and off-white, while sunflower and dark turquoise are combined with olive. New winter pastels like light yellow and mint are also seen.

Fabrics Stretchy, heavy crêpes, 3D jacquards, cosy flannels, corduroy, velvet and eye-catching fake fur in brilliant colours. Prints include animal and abstract flowers on crêpe and fluid jerseys.

Silhouettes Feminine boxy and short jackets with round necks and three-quarter sleeves will be combined with shift dresses, trapeze skirts or skinny ankle pants, while tailored blazers come with elegant bow blouses and wide pants and short boxy pullovers are worn with skinny pants.

Prices There is a big effort to keep the prices level.

Part Two

Name Pernille Skriver Job title Head of design

Design The stylish 1960s look is given a modern vibe with elements taken from grunge fashion’s edgy style. The collection includes oversized knitwear, checked men’s shirts, skinny jeans and jersey T-shirts. It gives the consumer a versatile autumn 12 wardrobe, making it possible to dress in both a casual, chic way as well as a raw, edgy manner.  

Colours The palette includes shades of black, army brown, bottle green and Bordeaux, with splashes of bright orange and sunshine yellow, which add beautiful contrasts to the collection.    

Fabrics Wool, leather, classic 1960s check and transparent silk georgette give the collection diversity and an elegant, raw and sensual twist. 

Silhouettes Long, lean silhouettes create a clean look and tailor-made masculine-inspired pieces keep styles sophisticated. 

Prices The wholesale price level for autumn 12 will be the same as 2011.

Noa Noa

Name Roland Jarlgaard Job title Brand director

Design The autumn 12 range looks at the contrast between feminine and masculine pieces, combining modern romance with a more clean and casual expression.

Colours Blacks, greys, and off-white mixed with rose, dark green and burgundy.

Fabrics Beautiful vintage-inspired metal jacquards, heavy garment-dyed twills, romantic laces, printed chiffon and silks, soft and cuddly mohair knits all come together in the new collection.

Silhouettes Long-length skirts and dresses, slim, skinny pants and fitted jackets that embrace a truly modern and feminine look.

Prices Same price level.

InWear

Name Lene Borggaard Job title Design manager

Design A refined, dressed-up look paired with a touch of laid-back elegance and casual softness sets the tone. With its soft silhouettes and combination of colours, prints and structures, this collection offers a laid-back look and feel that every sophisticated modern woman wants. A mix between being sophisticated, understated and laid-back is key for the autumn 12 season.

Colours With a beautiful mix of colours, the palette of this season combines darker colours and neutrals in mélange with intense sunset yellow, sweet lavender, fresh Bordeaux and creamy caramel, all contrasted with a rush of blue and a splash of intense orange.

Fabrics Moving from the heavier, textured detailing of previous seasons, the brand has emphasised a much more refined, structured feeling for this collection.

Silhouettes Soft silhouettes mixing sophistication with an understated feel.

Prices Retail prices have not changed. However, InWear has increased its margins for wholesale customers by reducing the cost price.

Caractère

Name Elsa Camurati Job title UK country manager

Design There is a strong sense of femininity this season. The reference point is a businesswoman who travels, so emphasis is placed on the needs of this woman, in particular fashionable boardroom wear for a contemporary woman who never loses her femininity.

Colours The colour palette of the autumn 12 collection will be full of delicate pastels with a strong return to black, all flecked with fiery shades of red.

Fabrics There are soft materials to create a fluid form, while a feminine side comes through thanks to Lurex touches.

Silhouettes The jacket becomes a cardigan, the coat a jersey. It’s about soft lines.

Prices Prices will not increase for the autumn 12 season.

Yaya

Name Rianne te Winkel Job title Head designer

Design Yaya is redefining its look and its heritage to incorporate stylish ease with a mix of refined feminine elegance and casual comfort. Signature knitwear pieces and jackets are key items in a transitional season with the possibility to layer, cover or remove. The look is simple but always with an added fun, feminine twist.

Colours Combines mud tones, brown and greys with rich golden yellow, tobacco and navy, accented by ultramarine, green moss and brick red.

Fabrics A lot of surface interest across all fabrics. Textured knitwear, tweeds, washes, coatings and gloss will feature.

Silhouettes Cropped jackets and cropped boxy cardigans on slim-fitted pants will feature alongside sleeveless cardigans and oversized sweaters.

Prices Yaya sees a challenging year ahead. Service, flexibility and offering quality while maintaining value will, as always, be important.

Ruby Rocks

Names Jenny MacDonald and Izzy Przedpelski Job titles Directors

Design Leaning towards classic denim workwear styling, there’s a folky feel for day, with motif hand knits in natural yarns (mainly lambswool), sitting alongside vintage-inspired pencil skirts, pretty blouses and midi dresses. For evening we favour a rock ’n’ roll vibe. A footwear range is also being launched.

Colours Denim, navy, red, khaki green and minky browns and much more black than normal.

Fabrics Denim, wool, cotton, jersey, lace. Natural fibres where wearability, functionality and above all looking and feeling great are key.

Silhouettes We’ve embraced the pencil skirt and fitted midi dresses, cropped chunky knits and Aran cardigans. I think the direction is a little more grown-up for Ruby Rocks and enhances the female body with a look that’s very sexy and feminine, but self-assured at the same time. Autumn is less cutesy and more sultry then previous collections.

Prices Wholesale prices have remained static.

Nümph

Names Anne Birkjaer, Birgitte Bukh and Sabine Olsen Job titles Head designers

Design Central to this season are loose shapes, heavy knits and a more boyish look but always with a pop of colour and quirky details. Having a focus on colour, print and detail is always important.

Colours The 1970s- inspired colours this season are caramel, yellow, burnt red, aubergine and khaki. To contrast these warm and earthy colours we have acid yellow, neon pink and a wide range of blues.

Fabrics Key fabrics are chunky and washed cottons, corduroy, heavy knits, bouclé yarns, mélange qualities and soft teddy fabrics. Details include wood buttons, tape bands and striped linings.

Silhouettes The cape is a new silhouette for Nümph this season. The long skirt and long dress are still important, and loose-fitted knit sweaters.

Prices The price structure will be kept the same.

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