Womenswear turns to the dark side for autumn 10, with inky palettes, metal rivet details and Victoriana lace infusing a strong separates season of Fair Isle and cable knitwear.
Focused around the ideas of retro futurism, FullCircle’s autumn 10 offering will combine strong architectural lines with more deconstructed elements all wrapped up with strapping and bandage details, emphasis on the hips, and longer line silhouettes. Key colours will veer from platinum and elephant grey shades through to rose, teal and cobalt blue. Standout pieces for the season look set to be a neoprene sculpted dress, leather melton mix biker jacket, latex lace party dress and chain embellished vests.
Part Two’s 2010 autumn collection taps into masculine uniform styles through slim silhouettes, with pieces inspired by suits of armour and military functional details. Fabrics centre around coated and metallic surfaces in leather, sand-washed canvas and heavy gauge knitwear with rivet details. Fused with this regimental look are more delicate features such as Victorian-inspired lace, washed silks and botanical prints. Earthy greens and browns sit alongside nougat and soft rose tones. Key items include a classic military-green parka coat. Truly, Part Two’s directional sub-brand, focuses on a more edgy aesthetic, with body con leather dresses complete with sharp shoulders juxtaposed with rhinestone studded, asymmetrically draped dresses and skintight denim and leggings.
Contemporary womenswear designer Olivia Rubin continues her assault on the dress market with a raft of new colours, textured fabrics and abstract prints for autumn 10. The palette centres around a futuristic feel of silvers and purples infused with softer nude and peach tones, and grounded with blacks and whites. Prints veer from zebra stripes and ladybird prints, through to graphic florals and monochrome Aztec motifs. Fabrics will include Rubin’s usual silks and satins, plus textural options such as mesh, tulle and brocade. Silhouettes are set to mimic the sharp shapes from autumn 10, with statement shoulders and body con styles, but also mixed with a more feminine feel with tailoring influences interpreted through loose, draping fabrics. Also new for autumn 10 is Oli Rubi, a collection of T-shirts and jersey pieces printed with a selection of Rubin’s key prints from the last three years of her collection.
Autumn 10 sees Emreco taking inspiration from strong pioneering women such as legendary French author and icon Colette, pioneering aviator Amelia Earheart, artist Elsa Schaperelli and Coco Chanel. The result offers plenty of layering options courtesy of feminine jersey draped dresses and boyfriend cardigans in soft palettes of navy, mushroom and violet or chocolate, ginger and silver, which are then punctuated with acid lime and flame red. Denim is dotted with diamante detailing and furnished with embroidery, knitwear is encrusted with subtle sequins while beaded jewellery motifs feature on long sleeved jersey tops. Animal prints are realised on trenchcoats for a new twist, while knitted jacquards are deployed on shawl collar cardigans. Dresses remain a key part of the Emreco wardrobe in lambswool mixes or graphic animal prints, while faux fur features strongly on jackets. Skirts are all about longer length pencil shapes but trousers veer from straight cut to wide legged.
Kapalua offers separate co-ordinates and knitwear collections, with the former characterised by comfortable jersey fabrics in neutral tones and metallic shades with rocky details such as rivets, leather trims and lots of exposed zips, alongside patchwork jerseys and chiffons, crinkled leather bomber jackets and jodhpur style trousers, while the knitwear centres around large, voluminous shapes in slub yarns, decorated in lace, beading and metal adornments. The knitwear collection is split into four deliveries – first is a neutrals-based set of waistcoats, rollnecks and long cardigans with ribbed panels; second up is a glam rock story of grey and burgundy mottled boucle yarns with fur trims and leather belts and chains; the third offering blends plum, bark and putty tones on fleecy yarns with Lurex, oversizded shirts and empire line dresses; the final story features short, sleeveless dresses, elaborately appliquéd long jackets sequins and fringing, and knitted fur waistcoats.
Day Birger et Mikkelson
Inspired heavily by Russia for autumn 10, Day Birger’s collection is inspired by Slavonic peasants, marching Cossacks, Babushka dolls and Doctor Zhivago. The result is a strong Russian boho luxe baroque offering with crisp, military lines contrasted against ethnic embroidered pieces. Tulip skirts fold open at the front and bolero feature puffed shoulders to give a regal touch. The second influence comes from the silent movie era of Charlie Chaplin, with shrunken tomboy tailoring on cropped menswear-influenced jackets, cropped trousers and deconstructed white shirts. Details include fur trimmings, tassels, officer’s uniform braidings and folkloric embroidery.
Set’s autumn 10 look centres around a deconstructed rocky feel, but without the glitz and glam of last autumn. Hemlines are shorter and thigh splits add an extra sexiness for the upcoming season. Trousers are key items, often slim or harem shaped with volume around the hips, as jodhpurs are multiple in dark gothic and sport-influenced incarnations. Knitwear is layered and there is plenty of faux fur to add a luxurious twist. Capes and cloaks add additional layering opportunities as do boyfriend blazers, and there are some underlying military references. Shoulders are defined in shirting and dresses as silk satins add volume draping around the body.
Inspired by woodland walks, the autumn 10 Numph collection is rendered in forest shades of leaf and berry red combined with fresh water blue, soft petal pink and graphite hues. Volume is gentle, with soft folding shirts still looking slender, while the high waist is important, as is the fitted top. Fabrics are natural and include cotton, silk and soft worn leather, all made to be layered together. Sleeves are ruched and patterns are abstract with butterfly motifs standing out. Diamond woven longer length cardigans and mesh knit shrugs all add to the louche layered feel.
Autumn 10 at Yumi fuses the dress brand’s signature quirky style with a darker undertone courtesy of richer fabrications, inky palettes and vintage touches such as pearl chains and faux fur trims. Divided into three trends, the first sees floral prints blurred and distorted, paired with structured shoulders on a predominantly monochrome colour palette of midnight blues and penguin black set against a rainbow of brights highlighted with metallic flashes. Luxury and opulence provide inspiration for the second story, with shimmer effect textured fabrics and faux fur in chocolate and berry tones. The finale to the collection is inspired by Scandinavian motifs, with fairisle knits displaying folk hearts and love-birds in smoky greys, earthy hues and rich plums.
Mainstream brand Faber’s knitwear collection is grouped into four fashion themes for autumn 10, with all four using an exclusive Faber cotton wool mix fabric alongside mohair and boucle yarns and cashmere blends. Stories veer from a rock and roll theme of leather leggings and animal rivet adorned pieces in black and cherry shades through to a sporty offering of silver and cornflower blue polo tops and quilted jackets and waistcoats. A warm palette of terracotta, caramel and chocolate is used for knitted and printed check blazers for a lady gentry look, while the season is finished off with a metallic and pastel combined story of fairisle mohair knits, fur lined waistcoats and fleeces.
Best of the rest
Betty Barclay has plumped for a more rocky collection for autumn with taupes, browns and black taking centre stage on treggings, leather jackets and sharp shouldered blazers. Pomodoro’s offering taps into the ever popular animal print craze courtesy of its maxi dresses, while glittery encrusted tunics inpurple, peacock and cerise keep the glam ante high for its eveningwear, and stripes characterise the relaxed daywear mood. Kate Cooper’s autumn offering comes in shades of candyfloss, lipstick pink and violet with ultra feminine touches such as lace and bow detailing to add to the 1950s style knee length coats and jewelled dresses. Gold opts for screen siren glamour with jewel coloured tiered shift dresses. It’s set to be a season of leather and rivet details, and Passport is keeping in line with that as well as adding boiled wool, lightweight boucles and velvet into its mix.Sem Per Lei is going along the elegant casualwear route with drainpipe jeans and jodhpurs combined with a variety of tops which range from oversized, longer styles through to boxy Chanel-inspired jackets. Apanage’s dress arm, Apanage Femme, is dominated by a dark colour scheme combined with metallic shades and plenty of rockier embellishment in the form of sequins, studs and gemstones, while outdoor collection Apanage Noir ranges from classic blazer coats to belted trench coats and wool coats.