The designer’s second collection continues an odd fashion odyssey, explains Ian Wright.
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Rejina Pyo is an international designer in every sense. Hailing from Korea, she came to London to study at Central Saint Martins before winning the Netherlands’ Han Nefkens Fashion Award, working on a collaboration with Swedish company Weekday and showing in an exhibition at the Benaki Museum in Athens. Most recently she worked as part of Serbian designer Roksanda Ilincic’s team, where she was involved in creating some of Ilincic’s key dresses and commercial pieces, allowing her to develop her draping skills that have been put to good use in her second proper collection for autumn 13.
Off the back of this Parisian adventure, Pyo has signed up stockists from China and Hong Kong, with interest coming from both the UK and the US - and it’s easy to see why.
Playing with proportion is big news for autumn, and Pyo has taken this idea and run with it. Her dropped and rounded shoulders get inflated, giving an effect somewhere between the historical and the futuristic. This duality continues with Pyo’s fabric choices, as soft faux mink fur and lustrous silk jacquards sit alongside an intriguing laminated cotton. The colour palette is rich too, with navy juxtaposed against wine tones and enlivened with zingy metallic finishes. It’s a melting pot of ideas and the result is certainly odd, but in a really satisfying way.
The peculiarity of seeing fuzzy fur butt up to precise, clean lines makes the brand stand out.
For spring 14 we’re promised “timeless pieces that are effortless and clean, but with a modern twist” - here’s hoping Pyo’s odd odyssey keeps pushing the boundaries, both geographical and aesthetic.