Slogan and logo graphics are emblazoned across hoodies and tops, while technical fabrics and futuristic themes are mixed with workwear and heritage looks.
Dutch denim-led label Cast Iron has ramped up its range of detailed chunky knits for autumn 10. Styling will be based around high collars, shawl collars, V-necks and db styles in a colour palette of cream, navy brown and grey. Shirting plays a big part in the Cast Iron collection and there will be plenty of floral prints as well as new self patterned fabrics, checks and stripes. Jackets will feature nylon and performance fabrics in blazers, blousons and ¾ length styling followed by heavier wool jackets and coats later on in the season. Denims focus on a slightly slimmer shape in three new washes – unwashed dark, used dark, and a new vintage aged wash. There are four new, highly detailed jeans to complement the basics and there will also be a full accessories line consisting of scarves, gloves, hats and belts.
Bench’s autumn 10 womenswear features bold colour palettes and a focus on branded graphics on simple silhouettes as well as more statement graphics like a watercolour overlaid with a geometric print used on leggings and long line vests. Winter knits and distressed and twisted shapes rebel against the cleaner silhouettes using dye effects including a snowbleach for a worn look, as marble effects, shimmer viscose jerseys, waxed twill jackets with metal detailing and lightweight knits with a ladder effect offer a rock diva story. Depth has been added to the trouser range with new legging prints and trouser shapes and softer denim is introduced into the range of dresses with new shapes and multifunctional removable neck drapes. Shirts are also key for the season and come with hoods and drawcord detailing. For men, bold colour and pixellated graphics are important, as is outerwear which includes peacoat and duffle styles in traditional meltons alongside a heavily wadded multi pocket parka. Distressed fabric treatments, raw edge finishing and gunmetal trims give an overall gritty look, while an outdoors theme is dominated by heavy knits with utility detailing.
While its streetwear roots are still key to Fenchurch, the autumn 10 womenswear is more driven by feminine fashion looks. The overall theme is a futuristic outlook that takes inspiration from modern architecture, geometrics, technology and space. With the impetus on geometrics, a feminine element comes in by looking to nature and creatively using the illustration of birds, star prints and floral graphics. Lots of photo prints feature, and key fabrics are Lurex, foil prints and marl. The futuristic theme follows through on menswear combined with influence from the brand’s London heritage with a slimmer silhouette and more layering options featured, as checked shirts, skinny jeans and chunky knits dominate.
Declarations of war, symbols of peace or historic emblems adorn a number of key pieces across all product areas in the form of flock badges and embroideries for Boxfresh for autumn 10. Next season’s colour palette consists of berry shades, sour acidic hues, Reggae-inspired colour combinations and army khakis, alongside grey and aquatic hues. Key pieces within the range include a baseball leather and melton jacket with bold branding, a checked shirt with back panel cut on the bias helping create a snugger fit, a jacquard folk knit with extended zip-through and a military knit with shirting fabric. For denim, three new coated fabrics come into play alongside new raw and vintage washes.
The Alpha Industries collection has grown continuously over the years and now incorporates around 120 items and offers a complete streetwear range alongside the jackets it is best known for. The range has been enhanced from a fashion viewpoint for autumn 10 with the use of various nylon qualities in the core models and greater use of flight nylon, two-tone nylon, liquid nylon (which has a shiny metallic look), Oxford nylon and pigment dyed nylon. The field jackets incorporate canvas and a nylon mix satin. The colour palette includes sage green, brown, gunmetal and bone white with splashes of brights, and hoodys, cargo pants, and shirts make up the rest of the collection.
Workwear brand CAT Apparel is split into clear ranges for autumn 10, including two new collections for the season; Re, which focuses on recycling and features T-shirt slogans such as Doing Our Part, and Urban Utility, which is a retro range, including gilets as outerwear. The rest of the collection draws upon the brand’s history, with Building a Legacy Since 1904 and Pushing the World Standard for Quality graphics, neutral colour palettes, utilitarian workwear silhouettes, heavy washes and oxidized metal trims. The women’s range, City Essentials, brings out a softer side of the brand with check shirts, polos and denim in plums, lavender, cobalt and passion pink.
Danish menswear brand J Fedders is inspired by velvety fabrics, rivets and the revival of tweed for next season. The collection is suitably wintery with long cardigans, chunky knits and colourful blazers. The colour palette includes black, burgundy, blue tones, purples, greys and browns. All casual shirts are garment washed and have a carbon peach finish in order to give a soft handle, with small details such as bar tacks on the narrow collars, side pockets, and vest details giving them a point of difference. The accessories line has also grown for autumn with leather belts, wool and cotton scarves, and ties in silk and cotton with matching handkerchiefs.
Autumn 10 will see Luke embrace the great outdoors and the British love of camping. Jackets with new linings, trims and buttons have a high technical spec with performance hooded macs in polished cotton reflecting this theme, and this will be complimented by a fresher colour palette, which mixes earthy colours such as moss, ox blood and a splash of royal blue with stand out shades of apple and turquoise. The knitwear offering features hybrid chunky knits using boiled wools and meltons, while there are plenty of jersey and sweats and classic polos also available. Following on from spring 10, denim arm Forever in Luke Jeans has grown with new washes and fits, while footwear and accessories have also moved forward with formal and casual footwear, socks, luggage, belts and watches reflecting the Luke handwriting. Additionally, Luke Roper, the premium Luke range, will be rebranded as Luke Limited Edition as of autumn 10 and will form part of the main range as a sub brand.
Best of the rest
Romantic and elegant themes are mixed with an 80s party feeling for People’s Market next season, as shoulder emphasis and fitted body-con silhouettes continue to lead the way alongside metallic fabrics. Key styles include the orchestra printed dress, loose fit slouchy trousers, sharp-shouldered tailored blazers and easy-chic fitted knitted dresses and skirts. The colour palette consists of piano black, jazz purple, and flashes of red with grey and navy undertones.
Zero by Stones
Zero by Stones, the German brand Stones’ more youthful line, is inspired by a rebellious James Dean for autumn 10, updating the silhouette with slimmer lines and featuring carbon coated cottons, riveting on denim with more flamboyant elements like the floral jacquard linings used on jackets.
Once Upon A Time
Print and patterns dominate the autumn 10 collection for girlish womenswear brand Once Upon a Time, from oversized Liberty prints to quirky galloping horses mixed in with cosy cocooning in shades of inky black, dusty pink, scarlet and rich purple. The Flicka dress is the key style, coming in an unstructured soft silhouette with cut-out shoulder details in nude silk satin embellished with a beaded rearing horse.
London womenswear label Rainbeaux focuses on trompe l’oeil patterns for next season, using prints, bows and diamante to emphasise strapless structured ruffle ra ra dresses in hot pink, jet black and sizzling red.