Pure this week presented a more commercially led parade of womenswear in the face of the more directional styles exhibited at Who’s Next in Paris and Copenhagen Fashion Week.
While trends at Pure such as plaids, printed silks and textured knits mirrored themes also seen in Copenhagen and Paris, the interpretations at Pure were safer and targeted at a more mainstream buyer.
Dominating rail space were heavy knitted items from cropped shawls and new poncho shapes through to coatigans. Also coming through were lighter weight versions which were presented with layering in mind. Rarely steering away from a grey palette the heavier items in particular may prove a struggle at the tills for any retailer that mined the trend last autumn.
At the more directional end knitwear designers have been swayed by retro fair isle patterns and 1970s Nordic looks. Layers of fine intarsia vied for attention alongside blown up snowflake motifs. These styles are all about pattern rather than silhouette which rarely veered away from traditional crew neck styles and the occasional knitted dress.
Dresses remained the killer category at Pure with stands weighing heavy under the strain of painterly print tea dresses, sequin embellished shifts and modernist silhouettes with origami fold necklines, architectural shoulder constructions and pinned and pleated hemlines. Plundering the history books designers sought inspiration from the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. Hemlines varied from prim below the knee styles to more flirty mid-thigh options which generally referenced the 1960s through their use of structured wool; for reference, think Mary Quant.
While subtle sequin embellishments, repeat prints and painterly florals provided further surface interest, the creative mood was broadly subdued at Pure. Most brands choosing instead to create collections which embraced their personalities and eschewed directional trends.