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Shopwatch: Barbour International, Richard James, Debenhams, Voisins Nicholas Kirkwood, Smart Turnout

From large department stores to a small shop in a railway station, we look at some of the best store openings from the past few months.

Barbour International
St James’s Gateway, London
Barbour’s first store under its Barbour International sub-brand opened on the Crown Estate’s £500m St James’s Gateway development, between London’s Piccadilly and Jermyn Street, on November 7. The British heritage brand has taken a 10-year lease on the 3,000 sq ft store, which is set over two floors and inspired by the brand’s motorcycling heritage. The store’s offer comprises technical and fashion pieces including jackets, knitwear, trousers, footwear and accessories for men and women, and the Barbour Steve McQueen collection.

Richard James
Savile Row, London
Tailor Richard James reopened its Savile Row shop, which is the largest retail space on the street, on November 18 after a four-and-a-half-month refurbishment. The store has been designed by architect Andy Martin and is split into two areas - ‘seasonal’ and ‘classic’ - by a translucent screen treated with a dichroic film which varies in colour, luminosity and reflectiveness. The screen acts as a central feature within the store, operating as a backdrop to the collections, and also adds privacy to the classic area and changing rooms. The ceiling features a stretched canvas concealing an adjustable ambient light system, which can be easily changed, reinstalled and decorated.

Oxford Street, London
Debenhams officially unveiled the interior of its new-look Oxford Street flagship store on December 2. As part of the year-long £25m
(the interior is also being revamped, at a cost of £15m) revamp Debenhams’ head office and executive staff have vacated the floor above the store and moved into a new office in Regent’s Park, adding 20,000 sq ft of selling space to the flagship. Reclaiming the top floor has allowed Debenhams to create a stunning central glass atrium which cascades light throughout the store. Menswear has moved from the once dark and dated basement to the first floor, women’s has moved up to second, a new designer hall has been created to house the Designers at Debenhams collections, and the basement has been renovated and is now home to lingerie and women’s footwear.

King Street, ST Helier, Jersey
Jersey department store Voisins’ new White Stuff and Joules concessions opened on October 30, making it the only retailer on the Channel Islands to stock the brands. The concessions are based on the 176-year old business’s ground floor in a 4,250 sq ft space previously occupied by HMV. The White Stuff concession features its characteristic design with a countryside feel, and the addition of Joules is intended to appeal to a slightly older demographic.

Nicholas Kirkwood
Mount Street, London
Footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood opened a pop-up store at 109 Mount Street to mark the launch of his debut men’s collection on October 26. The store is the first to house the designer’s autumn 13 men’s collection in its entirety and will be open for three months until mid-January 2014. Prices start from £465. Created by architect Mehrnoosh Khadivi, the store features an all-black palette - an evolution of the London Collections: Men installation that Kirkwood showed in June - with monolithic plinths and two motorlight wall lights.

Smart Turnout
St Pancras International, London
Menswear brand Smart Turnout opened a pop-up on the upper level of London’s St Pancras International station on September 19. Although on the small side because of its setting, the store offers a wide selection from the brand, with accessories such as hand-finished socks and belts, and clothing including sweatshirts, knits, shorts and trousers. The brand’s signature collegiate style is evident inside, where a simple but effective interior features wall-mounted crates, vintage-style miniature ships, drawers and luggage, all used to visually merchandise the product. This is the brand’s second store opening - it has traded in London’s Piccadilly since 2012 - and will be open until February next year.

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