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Return of Jil Sander eclipses Milan trends

The departure of Jil Sander creative director Raf Simons this week dominated Milan Fashion Week.  

News that the label’s founder Jil Sander is to take the reins for a third time came in a week that saw Italy’s biggest fashion names present their autumn 12 collections, with trends ranging from classic and decadent Milanese embroidery to masculine proportions via typical sexy cuts and details.

The colour palette ranged from the deep and subdued purple, emerald, coffee and jet tones at Gucci and Alberta Ferretti to zingy shades at Versus and, unexpectedly, Giorgio Armani.

Silhouettes were less sucked in and close-fitting than previous seasons, with the allure and sexiness so inextricably linked to Milan collections coming through as sheer or lace panels.

Trends, silhouettes and fabric didn’t seem to have moved on much, yet there was still plenty to excite buyers. Prada’s idiosyncratic take on Italian style was interesting but still commercial – the fun jackets and coats should prove popular in store against the sea of black and brown.

Dolce & Gabbana, while not pushing the boundaries, will still do well in store with its familiar sexy looks sure to please the brand’s customers.

From Gucci’s dark romance to Roberto Cavalli’s electric animal instincts, the collections shown over the seven days of Milan Fashion Week were, while not a side attraction, still overshadowed by Sander’s imminent arrival back at the brand she founded in 1968 and Simons’ final collection for the label he has redefined over the past seven years.

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