The proto mods and beret wearing beatniks of 1950s London were the fitting inspiration for a show which saw formal items worn casually. Traditional fabrications including herringbone wools, donnegals and tweeds added structure to the truncated cuts on tailoring, which were often worn over chunky, oversized knits, recalling the mismatched layering of Christopher Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum. The palette was equally well suited to a trad jazz club with heritage checks in browns, black roll necks and shots of moss, mustard and teal on fine gauge mohiar and chunky knits.
Updating the archive influences were pull-over parkas, skinny jeans (yes, they still have plenty of rock-currency), long-line knits and flannel-esque checks on jackets. Narrow cotton drill trousers and hobnail boots added a democratic edge from a more innocent age. Altogether irresistibly commercial.