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Ute Ploier

The Collection

Buttons placed wide and spread asymmetrically gave new proportions to tailoring at Ute Ploier’s minimal show, which like so many others was anchored to grey from dove to more steely shades. Low-slung trousers had a slinky drainpipe feel in tonic fabrications and while the pagoda shoulders looked effete on the wide-shouldered proportions, the move pointed to Ploier’s toying with 1950s silhouettes, a sermon shouted loudest on his checked trousers.

Key items

Contrast ribbed panels gave structure to heavy gauge knits while wide, rounded shoulders gave a comic book exaggeration to outerwear. More commercially, lightweight macs had a utility feel while the quirky buttonings set shirts and jackets apart.  

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