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Womens wear: Key silhouettes, S/S 12

In the first of a two-part feature, we take you through the key shapes for next spring’s womenswear.

Coats

  • Robe wrap - A non-structured luxury dressing gown-style evening duster coat with soft shoulders.
  • Clean A-line tabard - Volume hangs from the shoulder giving an almost trapeze line with cut-in armhole. Use minimal detailing in flexible proofs, coated linen or light suede.
  • T-cut coat - Long-sleeved T-shirt cut with dropped shoulders and edge-to-edge centre front. Falls just above the knee with side vents.

Jackets

  • Oblong hunter gilet - Long-length oblong shape with a high neck that flaps open. Big square patch pockets add a utility edge.
  • Square shrug - Square crop shape with long straight sleeves and an edge-to-edge centre front that doesn’t meet in the middle.
  • Generous blouson - Simple square-cut shape elasticated into a broad-band waist fastening with square sleeves and squared-
    off collar.

Skirts

  • Ballerina - Softly skimming the hips, the fullness is widest at the hem, which falls at mid-calf, worked in sheers or lightweight wovens for fluidity. As with the update on the 1950s skirt, this version has dropped volume.
  • Square peplum - Square-cut straight skirt yoke with relaxed knee-length fishtail suspended from mid-thigh. A daywear interpretation of a usually longer-length fitted evening shape.
  • Rectangle A darted rectangle straight cut to mid-calf. The shape is looser and wider, moving away from body-con. A good shape for both utility and slinky fabrics. The pencil skirt moved on.

Dresses

  • Gathered column - Long or three-quarter length fluid gathered curtain. Pulled in straight across the shoulders and on the waist.
  • Fluid fit and flare - This ballerina update has less fullness and sits just above the knee, featuring a round-neck sleeveless top with a simple flare ballerina skirt.
  • Oblong shift - Knee-length square shift with plunging V-neck and pinafore band shoulders.

Next week we look at women’s trousers, tops, jersey and knits. For the full report visit the seasonal direction area on WGSN Boutique where we also have key plus-size silhouettes.

Every week WGSN Boutique features new Capsule Trend reports across all categories.

 

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